Enchanting New Mexico: from rugged wilderness to sophisticated art circles, our fifth biggest state is a mesmerizing mosaic of cultures, scenic marvels, and Wild West lore - State Of The Month

Travel America, Jan-Feb, 2004 by Ellen Clark

A place of legend and folklore, with cultural richness and a changing landscape that scales mountain peaks and crosses scorched deserts, New Mexico is truly the Land of Enchantment.

Lovers of the outdoors will be drawn to the remote and pristine southwestern region, where Apache leader Geronimo once roamed. The canyons and cliffs of the 3.3-million-acre Gila National Forest, once home to ancient civilizations, are now prized by horseback riders and hikers. Birders revel in the annual crane and snow geese migrations at Bosque del Apache Wildlife Reserve.

Southwestern area towns range from those gone bust after the mines were played out to thriving 21st century communities.

In the foothills of the Pinos Altos Mountains, 6,000 high, Silver City borders the Continental Divide. Dating back to 1870, the town is said to have had its share of notorious visitors, including Billy the Kid, Judge Roy Bean, and "Dangerous" Dan Tucker. The town managed to survive the mining boom and bust and today claims to be one of the healthiest places in the country to live. Besides numerous museums and art galleries, visitors can enjoy fishing and golfing.

In Deming, the Deming Luna Mimbres Museum spotlights pioneer lore and Native American culture, in the nearby Florida Mountains, rock and mineral hunters can find agate, jasper, opal, quartz crystals and other stones at Rockhound State Park, 14 miles from town. City of Rocks State Park, to the northwest, awes visitors with rows of sculpted monoliths. Both parks offer camping and hiking.

Las Cruces, the state's second largest city, is steeped in history and alive with modern-day culture. Fort Selden State Monument--remains of an adobe fort--and the Mesquite Street historic district are reminders of the past. The fact that Las Cruces has its own chamber ballet, community concert association, community theater, and symphony attests to the vibrancy of this university city.

When it comes to the offbeat, there's no other town in the state that can beat Roswell. Located in the southeastern region, it was the scene of the purported UFO crashes in the 1940s and boasts the International UFO Museum/Research Center. The local brew here is appropriately named "Alien Amber."

For space lore of a less ethereal kind, the New Mexico Museum of Space History in Alarnogordo follows the explorations of earthlings in space.

The southeastern area isn't short of natural wonders either. Carlsbad Caverns National Park, a captivating kingdom of dripping stalactites and stalagmites, has limestone caverns that contain one of the world's largest underground chambers and miles of twisting passageways. In the town of Carlsbad, overlooking the Pecos River, the Living Desert Zoo and Gardens State Park displays the plant and animal life of the Chihuahuan Desert.

Above ground at White Sands National Monument, miles of shifting gypsum sand dunes undulate under cornflower blue skies.

The mountain resort town of Ruidoso is home to Ruidoso Downs, scene of the world's richest Quarter Horse race. The world-class Spencer Theater for the Performing Arts, with dazzling glass installations by Dale Chihuly, sits in the middle of open field outside of town. And aficionados of games of chance can try their luck at the local casinos.

Stomping grounds of such legends as Kit Carson, Butch Cassidy, Jesse James, and Annie Oakley, the northeastern region is truly steeped in the history of the Wild West. Wagons rumbling over the Santa Fe Trail gave rise to towns like Cimarron and Las Vegas.

With the advent of the automobile came another famous thoroughfare, Route 66. Santa Rosa boasts the Route 66 Auto Museum, while in Tucumcari devotees can still see examples of the famous Route 66 neon and buy trinkets of all kinds that celebrate the Mother Road.

Way before the days of gunslingers and highway kitsch, Native Americans roamed through this area. Pecos National Historical Park, boasting 12,000 years of history, includes the ruins of a 15th century pueblo and two Spanish Colonial missions.

Artists galore have taken up residence in the beautiful north central region, particularly in Santa Fe and Taos. Santa Fe is a sophisticated city, complete with a world-class opera, dozens of tony boutiques and 'art galleries, and plenty of cutting-edge restaurants. Santa Fe's well-preserved historic section revolves around the square, its cornerstone the Palace of the Governors, constructed in 1609.

Besides being a hotbed of creative expression, the area is dazzling to the eye with its rugged mountains, high desert mesas, and broad valleys. The active set can run the rapids along dramatic stretches of the Rio Grande or go backcountry hiking in Bandelicr National Monument.

There are numerous pueblos in the north central region, including the Taos Pueblo, a World Heritage Site, where Native Americans still live in sculpted mud dwellings. For fans of more modern history, a trip to Los Alamos, where the nuclear age was born, is a must.

Albuquerque, New Mexico's largest city, is the hub of the central region. Established in 1706, the city's Old Town is centered around a grassy square surrounded by San Felipe de Neri Church and historic buildings that have been turned into galleries, restaurants, and museums. Route 66 runs through the downtown area, which has plenty of leftover Mother Road kitsch and colorful murals. Those who can't afford Santa Fe's lofty prices will find more affordable silver and turquoise jewelry, handmade pottery, and other artwork in Albuquerque.