Voyage of discovery: explore the Pacific Northwest on a week-long cruise that follows the path of Lewis & Clark - Tour Of The Month - river cruise on the Queen of the West sternwheeler

Travel America, Jan-Feb, 2004 by Pat Woods

A DIXIELAND BAND PLAYS lively tunes and anticipation ripples through the Double Tree Jantzen Beach Hotel's riverfront lounge in Portland, Oregon. On the Columbia River below, the Queen of the West sternwheeler is decked out with bright flags and patriotic bunting.

As the crew smoothly orchestrates the boarding process for the seven-night "Three Great Rivers" cruise, sun breaks through clouds. Calliope music enhances the festive atmosphere as we walk down the gangway.

With luggage already in our cabin, husband Bob and I sip welcome champagne with other passengers. When the Queen pulls away from the dock, the onboard historian talks about nearby verdant hills, major buildings, and Portland's many bridges as we pass under them.

At a maximum speed of 14 knots (16 m.p.h.), the Queen tides smoothly. Its period decor recaptures the Victorian elegance of the heyday of the sternwheeler era. Although the vessel lacks the size and glitz of giant oceanliners, the mostly 50-plus guests like the informal, friendly ambience on its four decks as well as the superb service provided by an efficient, well-trained American crew that would make any CEO beam with pride. The boat is one of two overnight cruise vessels operated by Seattle-based American West Steamboat Company.

Measuring 230 feet from stem to stern, the Queen carries 163 passengers maximum. All 73 staterooms are outside with large windows, television sets, and VCRs. One channel shows the view the captain sees from the bridge.

At no time do we feel crowded on the Queen. Roberta Cook from Whippany, New Jersey, says she likes the Queen's small size compared with new 3,800-passenger megaliners. "This is such fun! The Queen is more intimate, making it easy to meet people. And it's nice to not have a 10-mile hike to get a sweater from my stateroom."

A single open seating at all meals in the Lewis and Clark dining room promotes social interaction. Huge picture windows make every meal a waterfront dining experience. On clear days, we see snow-capped Mt. Hood. Dress is casual, and food and service are over-the-top. Dinner includes salad, soup, with a choice of regional meat, fish, or vegetarian entrees--followed by sinfully delicious desserts such as creme brulee. I eat my fill of seafood and savor the plumpest, juiciest berries.

Bonny Musgrove from Henderson, Nevada, tells us she is pleased the dining room accommodated her special dietary request. "Eric, our waiter, and the chef are very understanding about my allergy to onions and peppers."

Len and Marge Beanland from Castro Valley, California, are enjoying their second Queen of the West cruise. "We're back for more fun with friendly people," Marge enthuses. "On our last cruise, the captain saw us sitting alone and invited us to his table. He also invited me to the pilot house when I was on deck at 5 o'clock one morning.... The crew treats us royally, and the food is exceptional."

As we cruise the Columbia, Willamette, and Snake rivers, we pass a plethora of unique scenery: Portland's plush mansions, an array of barges and working tug boats, graceful white pelicans, nesting ospreys, playful otters, leaping salmon and sturgeon. At Hood River, Oregon, the captain blows the whistle to alert wind surfers.

We marvel at the beautiful Columbia River Gorge (between Washington and Oregon), where fruit orchards, blue water, and lush evergreen forests with cascading waterfalls contrast with dark basalt cliffs.

The scenery changes to arid high desert on the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains in Washington and Oregon, where golden wheat fields are dotted with grain elevators overflowing with a bumper crop. Irrigated fruit orchards create an occasional green oasis in this remote barren landscape.

Motorcoach excursions, included in Queen of the West pricing, take us on day trips to a bevy of Oregon destinations. A folk music duo greets us at the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Wasco County Historical Museum. Other excursions take us to Multnomah Falls, the Bonneville Dam, Pendleton's Western Show, and the Tamastslikt (Native American) Cultural Center.

We dock at Clarkston, Washington, and board 60-passenger jet boats for a ride into the Snake River's Hells Canyon, which forms part of the border between Idaho and Oregon. Much deeper than the Grand Canyon, most of Hells Canyon is accessible only by boat or hiking trails.

As we hear about the canyon's geology, we gaze up at soaring, 1,000-foot cliffs. We stop to view ancient petroglyphs on the Idaho side of the Snake River. During our three-hour ride, the boat slows for a closer look at eight bighorn sheep, deer swimming in the river, and osprey and great blue herons searching for fish.

Other excursions take us to the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument in Washington. On the beautiful Oregon Coast, we visit Astoria's Columbia River Maritime Museum, the famed Astoria Column, Lewis and Clark's Fort Clatsop, and the resort town of Cannon Beach.

Our voyage of discovery followed a portion of Lewis and Clark's epic journey. Throughout the cruise, the historian made the past come alive, pointing out natural landmarks and sharing folklore.