Shoreline serenity: untainted and uncrowded, 10 national seashores invite Americans to enjoy idyllic isles and picturesque peninsulas

Travel America, Jan-Feb, 2005 by Darlene P. Copp

Our country's tallest lighthouse, an endearing landmark in our oldest national seashore, was saved from the clutches of the sea five years ago. When it was built in 1870, about 1,500 feet of beach separated North Carolina's Cape Hatteras Lighthouse from the Atlantic. Over time, most of that buffer zone had eroded away. After years of debate, and with $12 million, a rail system like that used to deliver the space shuttle for launch moved the 208-foot tower 2,900 feet back from its precarious home.

Wind and waves constantly reshape Cape Hatteras National Seashore, putting anything manmade, including the road that links its three islands, at risk. Barrier islands, considered the most dynamic landforms on earth, comprise eight of our national seashores, the remaining two being peninsulas. One of those peninsulas juts out into the Pacific above San Francisco. All the other preserves front the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, stretching from blustery Massachusetts to tropical Texas. Although some of the islands require a boat ride, most are connected to the mainland by bridges and causeways.

In the 1950s, commercial interests began eyeing remote barrier islands. Fortunately, before exclusive properties for the few and tourist traps for the many could engulf them all, federal legislation in the 1960s and '70s decreed that some be set apart just as they were: pristine, quiet, tranquil.

Besides calming your soul, they can fill your vacation with top-notch recreation. Fishing and surfing at Cape Hatteras, for instance, can't be beat along the East Coast. All the seashores keep trails open for exploring dune migration, marsh life, or the evolution of a maritime forest. Bird watching is superb. Or perhaps you would rather seek out wild horses. Beachcombing will make you lose track of time. And if you like solitude, there's plenty of sandy space to open your beach umbrella and not hear another human being until you are ready to leave.

Lest you completely lose touch with the world, you can also explore fascinating remnants of human history at these coastal sanctuaries. Lighthouses and lifesaving stations witness man's ageless struggle with the sea. Brick forts from the 19th century may capture your attention at Gulf Islands in Mississippi and Florida. Cape Cod and Georgia's Cumberland Island preserve noteworthy residences. And North Carolina's Cape Lookout retains an abandoned 18th century town.

All the national seashores maintain campgrounds (hike-in at Point Reyes; primitive only at Cape Lookout and Canaveral). For lodging, look to nearby communities, many of which are resort towns with attractions of their own to entice you. But if you dream of a lovely, uncrowded beach, plan to linger in our national seashores.

National Seashores

National Park visitor centers provide free maps, issue restrictions for park use, and post activities. Many also offer orientation videos and exhibits on seashore dynamics, ecology, marine life, and human history. During the summers, rangers lead an assortment of interpretive programs, including nature walks, fishing demonstrations, and campfire talks. Children may be able to earn Junior Ranger status. Note that some locations charge modest entrance fees.

CALIFORNIA

Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes Station, CA 94956; (415) 464-5100; www.nps.gov/pore. Authorized 1962; established 1972. Unlike its East Coast counterparts, this coastal park features beaches backed by dramatic cliffs, lagoons, forests, and sea lion colonies along 80 miles of unspoiled coastline. Traditional ranching, active on the peninsula since 1836, continues in a pastoral zone. Scenic drives, beachcombing, hiking on more than a hundred miles of trails, horseback riding, bird watching, and spotting gray whales top activities. You can also explore the San Andreas Fault Zone or a replica Coast Miwok Indian village.

FLORIDA

Canaveral National Seashore, 308 Julia St., Titusville, FL 32796; (321) 867-4077; www.nps.gov/cana. Established 1975. In a state lined with beach resorts, Canaveral guards 24 miles of natural coastline as well as a lagoon, marshes, and woodlands. (Note: South district closed during space shuttle operations.) Fishing, surfing, and shelling are popular. Go for the beautiful beaches and stay for a hike through a hammock of moss-draped live oaks. For wildlife watching, take a seven-mile self-guided driving tour in the adjacent Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, one of several refuges that cooperate with neighboring seashores.

Gulf Islands National Seashore, 1801 Gulf Breeze Pkwy., Gulf Breeze, FL 32561 ; (228) 875-9057; www.nps.gov/guis. Six island-and-mainland units comprise the Florida District of this joint Florida-Mississippi seashore, the largest of the 10 national seashores. Centered at Pensacola, they offer sugar-white sand beaches, fishing, snorkeling, nature trails, and tours of two early 19th century forts. Fort Pickens imprisoned Apache leader Geronimo 1886-1888.

GEORGIA

Cumberland Island National Seashore, Box 806, St. Marys, GA 31558; (888) 817-3421; www.nps.gov/cuis. Established 1972. Despite a long human history, Cumberland appears untouched. As one of the largest undeveloped barrier islands in the world, it protects 17.5 miles of white-sand beach, dunes as high as 40 feet, lush maritime forest, and wild horses. In 1884 Thomas and Lucy Carnegie began building family mansions on the island; two are historic districts and one is the Greyfield Inn. Island access is by passenger ferry only; reservations required. Only 300 people per day may visit, and there are no restaurants or stores.