Summer in New England: plan now for a warm-weather escape top the mountains of Vermont, Maine's largest lake, or a laid-back retreat off the coast of Rhode Island

Travel America, March-April, 2002 by Diane Bair, Pamela Wright

Short, sweet, and impossibly green--that's summer in New England! Every year, when May arrives in a burst of fragrant warmth, we shed our layers of fleece and marvel anew at the eye-popping, Day-Glo shade of green that envelopes our little corner of the planet. A sense of playfulness rules the season, when even the most reserved Yankee is moved to put on a pair of (egad!) in-line skates and zig-zag 'round the 'hood, just for the heck of it. No doubt about it: the spirit of New England soars in the golden light of summer.

Here are some of our favorite playgrounds, each distinctly "New England" and oh-so-inviting:

Maritime Magic in Mystic. If it's a sea-faring experience you crave, you won't do better than Mystic. This coastal Connecticut town is sliced down the middle by the Mystic River. Don't be surprised if, as you stroll the little shops on Mystic's main street, you're stuck on one end of the street while the bascule bridge is up. Watching the boats pass by is a favorite local spectator sport; you'll see pleasure craft and, perhaps, windjammer schooners and tall ships from Mystic Seaport, a re-created 19th century village where role-players demonstrate crafts such as boat building and wood carving. Check out the 1841 whale ship Charles W. Morgan and sign up for a river cruise on the steamboat Sabino.

Nearby, Mystic Marinelife Aquarium is worth checking out for its well-done outdoor exhibits. And everybody ends up at Olde Mystick Village, a collection of shops, restaurants, and a first-run movie theater. Shops vary in quality and uniqueness, but we like Log Cabin Candle Co., where they sell hand-poured candles in just about every imaginable fragrance, and Franklin's General Store.

For a look at Connecticut's Native American heritage, check out the Mashantucket Pequot Museum and Research Center, a state-of-the-art complex on the reservation most famous as the home of mammoth Foxwoods Casino. Just seven miles from Mystic, the museum has crafts, artwork, videos, computer exhibits, and a recreated farmstead.

While we like all the action and bustle of Mystic's tourist scene by day, we like things quiet at night. A good hotel that fits the bill is the new Mystic Marriott Hotel and Spa (860-446-2600), just outside of town. Its best feature: an in-house version of the famous Elizabeth Arden's Red Door Salon.

Contact: Mystic & More Tourism Council, www.mysticmore.com. Or call (800) CT-BOUND (Connecticut Office of Tourism).

The Sporty Scene in Stowe. Admit it: you stopped at Ben & Jerry's ice cream factory on the way into town. Everybody does. But what better place to work off some caloric excess than Stowe, Vermont, where mountain hikes beckon and a recreation path makes it easy to bike, stroll, or skate nearly anyplace you want to go? Surprise--this classic ski town is equally enticing in summer, when Mt. Mansfield (Vermont's tallest peak) is a backdrop of deep green and the recreation path is lined with vibrant blooms.

Our must-do list for Stowe is jam-packed with outdoor fun: Ride the alpine slide down Spruce Peak. (Looks sort of scary, but you control your speed around the concrete curves.) For an even wilder ride, drive Route 108 through Smuggler's Notch. Endure the totally-hairy hairpin turns, then enjoy the view of this gnarled, glacially-created chasm from a small rest area at the top. The hiking is sweet in Stowe. Woodsy trails lead to alpine lakes and rocky outcroppings with splendid vistas. Then there's that recreation path. If every town had a multi-use path like this, America would surely be svelter! The 5.5-mile, one-way (it's not a loop) trail winds past farms, through woods, and around town.

Among the lodgings, we like Stoweflake Inn & Resort. It's got a great location, a friendly pub, and loads of amenities. You can gaze at Mt. Mansfield while floating in the outdoor pool. What's not to like? Call (802) 253-7355 or visit www.stoweflake.com.

Contact: Stowe Area Association, (802) 253-7321; www.gostowe.com.

A SeaSide Gem in Massachusetts. The Bay State's smallest city is a treasure trove of summer pleasures. Forty miles north of Boston--and reachable by commuter rail--Newburyport boasts a too-quaint downtown of restored brownstone buildings housing specialty shops and restaurants. Wander down to the boardwalk (off Water Street) and admire the boats in the Merrimac River, which feeds into the Gulf of Maine. You'll notice the posted schedule of Newburyport Whale Watch excursions; to sign on for a trip, head left to Hilton's Dock and look for the big blue mural. Summertime is a great time to head out to sea and look for these gentle giants at their feeding grounds. You'll also pass Plum Island beach, which is every bit as inviting by land as by sea. A visit to the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge and Plum Island beach is a perfect day; the refuge is a mecca for avid bird-watchers.

Back in town, stop for lunch or dinner at the Black Cow's inviting waterfront deck. Or take a picnic lunch to Maudslay State Park, with formal gardens, meadows, and woods.