Paniolos in paradise - Travel Views - Hawaii

Travel America, March-April, 2004 by Roberta Sotonoff

It's herding cows and riding the dusty range from dawn till dusk. That's pretty much a cowboy's life. His respite comes later, when he sits around the campfire, strumming his ukulele or weaving flowers for his headband, his horse, or maybe even his wife.

Weave flowers? You heard me right. Paniolos, the tough Hawaiian cowboys, find the flower thing relaxing.

Two hundred years ago, when only Indians roamed the West, Hawaiian cowboys herded cattle along high ridges ringed by the sea. These paniolos were out of reach of the islands' missionaries, so they maintained many Hawaiian traditions. Today most of the big ranches are gone, but parts of Hawaii preserve their colorful cowboy past.

On the island of Maui, Route 390 will take you upcountry to Makawao, one of the last paniolo towns in the state. At first glance you'll think you are in Dodge City, circa 1850. In the 1950s and '60s Makawao was the place where fighting, drinking, and cavorting cowboys hung out. The Rodeo General Store still exists, but these days most of the stores offer souvenirs, health foods, and jewelry; some house coffee shops and art galleries.

Just off the main drag are the rodeo grounds and the Maui Roping Club. In early July the Makawao Rodeo attracts the best paniolos in the state. The winding road toward Olinda is bordered with huge gum trees, flower farms, and ranches hidden amid the lush greenery.

To get the paniolo experience firsthand, mosey over to the island of Molokai. It's more laid back than Maui.

"This is the rush hour," says Kippy, our driver, as we travel the deserted road from the airport to the 54,000-acre Sheraton Molokai Lodge & Beach Village.

The resort is a 102-year-old working ranch with 500 head of cattle and about 100 horses. Whether you plan to play paniolo or not, you must sign the Participation Agreement at check-in. It absolves the hotel of responsibility for any kind of injury.

Wild West wannabes gladly sign the document because this place is cowboy heaven. Many resorts offer horseback riding, but at the Sheraton Molokai it is possible to ride with ranch hands along the world's highest sea cliffs. Guests who want to test their horsemanship can participate in rodeo activities. The Paniolo Round-Up offers a chance to learn skills in cattle herding, penning, and sorting.

Camping at the ranch isn't exactly roughing it on the range. Canvas bungalows with ocean views have queen-size beds, solar-powered lights, and private bathrooms with hot running water.

For those who prefer an indoor sleeping experience, there is the comfy lodge, where each room has a panoramic view of the countryside. At the Maunaloa Room restaurant, try the spinach salad with gorgonzola cheese and macadamia dressing, then skewered shrimps and scallops with garlic angel hair pasta.

If you want to eat more like the ranch hands, Kamuela's Cookhouse features Hawaiian home-cooked food. It's the shack to the left of Route 470, just past Coffees of Hawaii and where your craving for pickled mangos will be answered.

If you are a pseudo paniolo who prefers pampering, the Lodge at Koele on the island of Lanai may be just the place. The posh lodge, built up on a hill, was the former Koele Ranch. It has stables and even a multi-colored island version of an Old West movie set.

The stable is run by a Brit, Chris Rendina, and her rodeo-riding, Wyoming native assistant, Wod (pronounce Jod) Neal.

"Ninety percent of our guests never have been on a horse, but it looks so pretty from the lodge, they want to ride," says Rendina.

Billy Crystal did a lot of riding here about the time be made "City Slickers." The resort even offers a polo field. Chris or Wod usually take visitors on a two-hour trail ride up in the mountains.

"It doesn't look like you are in Hawaii when you are on a trail ride." says Jod. "It looks more like Wyoming."

When you reach the top, the view of Maui and Molokai is awesome. Though idyllic beaches border the islands' shores, ranches fill much of their interiors.

"The cowboy way of life is a well-kept secret in Hawaii," says Rendina. "In Lanai the way of life is Western and rural, but since there is such a high concentration of Filipinos, it doesn't look so Western."

The descendants of some of the old Lanai ranch families still keep about 40 or 50 horses. Few are actually ridden but are kept for tradition.

Rendina imparts another paniolo tradition: "The true-blooded Hawaiian cowboy surfs."