Discovering Western Kentucky: lakes, caves, and river towns intrigue visitors in an overlooked region of the Bluegrass state

Travel America, March-April, 2005 by Mary Bergin

IT HAS BEEN 25 YEARS SINCE I ROAMED WESTERN KENTUCKY as a newspaper reporter, writing about the coal miners of Muhlenberg County, the barge operators on the Ohio River, the homespun goodness of people who work hard to preserve their heritage.

How heartening it is to see, while getting reacquainted recently, that natural and manmade wonders continue to flourish. Both rustic beauty and cultural sophistication thrive in this part of the Bluegrass State. Distinctive crafts, music, and foods provide the backbone for local and international celebrations.

Lake Barkley and Kentucky Lake flank the 170,000-acre Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, whose development began in the 1960s. The Cumberland and Tennessee rivers were deliberately flooded to turn this area of meager agricultural and industrial resources into a haven for hikers, campers, boaters, and other outdoor enthusiasts.

The Trace, a 40-mile road that cuts through this inland peninsula (the nation's largest), connects Kentucky to Tennessee. Off the road are more than 200 miles of trails, along with primitive campsites and those with hook-ups for RVs. There are mountain bikers and horseback riders, boat ramps and beaches, a planetarium and nature exhibits.

About 150 bald eagles winter in Land Between the Lakes; roughly 50 bison and 40 elk make their home on a protected, 700-acre prairie. The Homeplace, a living history museum, recreates a mid-19th century farm where wool is spun and tobacco harvested. Costumed guides work the land and take tourists through the springhouse, smokehouse, and other buildings.

State parks on the two lakes, plus private enterprises, provide lodging. Grand Rivers, the northern gateway to the peninsula, is known for its variety of eateries and shops. Cadiz, near Lake Barkley State Resort Park, has a popular Country Ham Fest in October, when about 80,000 visit the town of 4,000.

One of Kentucky's most exquisite natural wonders is Mammoth Cave National Park, which contains the world's longest cave. More than 350 miles have been explored at this World Heritage Site, and some of the rocks are 350 million years old.

A variety of cave tours is available, with options ranging from easy to strenuous. The underground network is both complex and fragile. Rangers conduct nature walks and bird watching excursions as well.

Mammoth Cave is about 30 miles northeast of Bowling Green, which in 1998 opened a cave inside its city limits. Lost River Cave has the state's only underground boat tour; at one point the cave ceiling is a mere 8-10 inches above your head. This picturesque area was a family picnic spot in the 1800s; an underground nightclub thrived in the 1930s and '40s. The NBC Orchestra and Tommy Dorsey Band made their way here before a new interstate highway diverted traffic away and resulted in the club's closing in 1959.

A few miles away is Beech Bend Park and Splash Lagoon, which packs in about 40 thrill and water rides, plus 500 camp ground sites. Stock car racers, Harley riders, and hot rod enthusiasts gather at adjacent Beech Bend Raceway.

Car lovers come to Bowling Green for another reason, too. Corvettes are manufactured here, and there are assembly plant tours. The National Corvette Museum displays more than 75 Corvettes--classics, production milestones, and rare models. Singer Roy Orbison's 1957 Corvette is here. So is the only 1983 model that still exists (35 were made, but by the time the kinks were ironed out, it was 1984). Want to order the newest? Car pick-up at the museum can be arranged.

In Bowling Green's historic downtown, see a restored vaudeville house and quaint Fountain Square Park; walking tour brochures include architecturally diverse mansions and churches. Classy dining choices include Mandolin, an 1877 house filled with eclectic artwork made by its Bosnian owner. Try the lobster ravioli with baby shrimp and a lemon-butter sauce.

When I lived in Owensboro, banjos, barbecue, and burgoo were points of pride for the Ohio River city--and that hasn't changed. At least a half-dozen barbecue joints know how to sauce up beef, pork, chicken, and mutton; a longtime favorite is the Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn.

Burgoo cook-otis are like chili suppers in the Midwest and a popular way for schools and churches to raise funds. No two cooks seem to make this meat and vegetable soup/stew/puree quite the same.

Owensboro markets itself as a festival city, and one headliner is the International B-B-Q Festival during the second weekend of May. Hundreds of gallons of burgoo and barbecue are sold.

The city's International Bluegrass Music Museum is a keeper of history and celebration of talent. The annual River of Music Party, June 23-25, has a film festival and songwriting contest as well as concerts by national performers.

In tiny Rosine, southeast of Owensboro, is the birthplace of bluegrass music's founding father, Bill Monroe, whose Jerusalem Ridge home and burial site can be toured. More than 50 acts will perform here Sept. 29-Oct. 2.