WASHINGTON

Travel America, May, 2001 by Paul Hurd

Mountain majesty and maritime magic lure travelers to this captivating corner of the Pacific Northwest

Welcome to Washington, the only state named after a U.S. president. It's nicknamed the Evergreen State and, okay, it does rain a bit. But the T-shirt that reads "Seattle Rain Festival, January 1-December 31" may be overstating the obvious, in fact, we residents enjoy a multitude of gorgeous days, especially in the summer--and conditions east of the Cascades can be downright arid.

Most visitors to Washington begin their tour in Seattle, one of America's most beautiful urban environments. Like Rome, Seattle was built upon seven hills. The city is nestled between the saltwater Puget Sound to the west and freshwater Lake Washington to the east. The snow-capped Olympics loom to the west, the Cascades to the east ... and on a clear day when "the mountain is out." majestic Mt. Rainier seems so close you amid touch it!

Heed the signs in busy Pike Place Market that read "Caution--Low Flying Fish!" The fishmongers at Pike Place Fish have made salmon tossing an art form. The market is filled with eclectic shops, eccentric artisans, produce stands, pubs, and the casually elegant Inn at the Market. (One of my favorite seafood cafes, Cutters, overlooks Elliott Bay just north of the market.) Seattle is definitely "latteland"--Starbucks' original store was in Pike Place Market--and there seems to be an espresso stand on every corner.

Steps lead from the market tel the famous waterfront. The piers are dotted with a host of family friendly seafood establishments (like Ivars and Elliotts), curio shops (like Ye Olde Curiosity Shop), the Aquarium, and harbor boat tours with Argosy or the sleek Spirit of Puget Sound. For a real Northwest Native experience, cruise to Tillicum Village on Blake Island for the salmon bake. Or, for the budget tour, walk aboard a ferry for Bainbride and take a short hike through the village to the Madrona Waterfront Cafe. Ferries run about every hour, and the fare is under $5 roundtrip.

Be sure to take Bill Spieldel's Underground Seattle Tour through Historic Pioneer Square. It's an irrelevant and comical look at the seedy side of Seattle in the late 1880s.

Westlake Center, Nordstrom's flagship store, the Seattle Art Museum, the new Benaroya Symphony Hall and the Broadway-style 5th Avenue and Paramount theaters are key parts of the cultural and shopping area known simply as "Downtown." The area includes great restaurants (i.e., the Metropolitan Grill, Fullers, and McCormicks) and many highly rated hotels, including the Madison, Alexis, Monaco, and the state's only 5-Diamond luxury hotel, the Four Seasons Olympic (home to the ultra-chic Georgian Room).

For the tops in dining with a view, ride the monorail to Seattle Center, home to Seattle's latest architectural wonder, the Experience Music Project, and head for the revolving restaurant atop the famous Space Needle. (Other view dining favorites include Salty's on Alki Point and Ray's Boathouse on Shilshoe Bay, just west of the fascinating Hiram M. Chittenden Locks.)

Cross one of the floating bridges on Lake Washington (and past Bill Gates' $75-million home), through Bellevue and the high-tech "Eastside" into the Cascade foothills to view roaring Snoqualmie Falls. The upscale Salish Lodge, perched precariously above the falls, is noted for ils cozy atmosphere and gargantuan breakfasts.

There are more than 200 islands in Puget Sound. The largest, Whidbey Island, is easily accessible by ferry or bridge. Whidbey is filled with channing lodges and bed-and-breakfasts such as Coupeville's Anchorage Inn, the Captain Widbey, and teh Inn at Penn Cove and Langley's Eagle's Nest and the Inn at Langley, which overlooks picturesque Saratoga Passage. Deception Pass State Park, at the island's north end, boasts 25 miles of scenic hiking trails.

Washington State ferries leave Anacortes for the San Juan Islands and Victoria, British Columbia. Orcas Island is home to the sprawling Rosario Resort & Spa and idyllic Turtleback Farm Inn. Don't miss forested Moran State Park and the view of Mt. Baker from atop Mt. Constitution. Lopez Island is a favorite for cyclists, and many bike directly to the quaint Inn at Swifts Bay. Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island, is the islands' commercial center. Roche Harbor and its Hotel de Haro take you back in time. The marina there is is popular stop for whale-watching cruises.

Back on the mainland, La Conner has emerged as the arts and antique center for the Skagit Valley region. The Channel Lodge and the Country Inn serve as excellent bases for viewing the tulips early April. (The Skagit Valley is second only to Holland in bulb production.) The scenic Chuckanut Highway follows the coast northward to the busy port city of Bellingham. Further north, on the water-front near the B.C. border in Blaine, the Northwest-style Inn at Semiamhoo has a marina and an Arnold Palmer-designed championship golf course.

Tacoma's Pt. Defiance Park, one of the nation's largest city parks, sports a wonderful zoo and great South Puget Sound views. Cross the Tacoma Narrows Bridge to the artsy bayside village of Gig Harbor. The tall dome of the capitol looms over Olympia at the south end of the sound.