Virginia's Historic Triangle AMERICA'S ROOTS - Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown

Travel America, May, 2001 by Randy Mink

From our nation's birthplace come the customs, laws, and language of this great land

Think of Williamsburg, and images of powdered wigs, three-cornered hats, and the founding fathers of our democracy usually spring to mind. Indeed, the roots of American liberty run deep in this part of southeastern Virginia.

Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown form the points of Virginia's Historic Triangle, where landmark events in American history unfolded on the narrow tidewater peninsula bounded by the James and York rivers. More than four million visitors a year come to follow in the footsteps of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry, and other colonial patriots who frequented the shops, taverns, and government buildings of Williamsburg, one of the oldest planned communities in the nation.

Vacationers can take a break from the 18th century at family fun parks and a wide assortment of other attractions. In fact, the Williamsburg area is one of the East Coast's premier destinations for parents seeking to provide their children with the perfect mix of entertainment and educational enrichment.

Five major attractions, in cooperation with more than 50 Williamsburg hotels, have developed the Revolutionary Fun package, available from May 5 to September 16. One price covers hotel accommodations and unlimited visits to three outstanding living history museums--Colonial Williamsburg, Jamestown Settlement, and Yorktown Victory Center--plus Busch Gardens Williamsburg theme park and Water Country USA, a mega-water park operated by the Busch folks. The rate depends on the hotel chosen, number of people, and number of nights. For two people for three nights, the package starts at $499.

No matter where you stay, no point of interest in Virginia's Historic Triangle will be far away. The tree-lined Colonial Parkway, a 23-mile scenic corridor, links Williamsburg with Jamestown, where the New World's first permanent English colony sprouted in 1607, and with Yorktown, scene of the crucial 1781 battle that ended the Revolutionary War. Just think--you've got the beginning and end of colonial America within a 30-minute drive. Unspoiled by commercial traffic, the highway is administered by the National Park Service. Williamsburg is the center of the triangle, about equidistant from Jamestown and Yorktown.

The first stop on most itineraries is Colonial Williamsburg, generally regarded as America's most brilliant and comprehensive historic restoration. With 88 original buildings and hundreds of reconstructions, the 173-acre Historic Area merits a full day, ideally two.

Since 1957, Colonial Williamsburg guests have typically begun their visit by viewing Williamsburg--The Story of a Patriot, a 35-minute film starring Jack Lord as fictional patriot John Frye. Though a 30-minute guided orientation walk and special theme tours are available, most visitors are content just to stroll down the lanes at will, prowl the gardens, and soak up the ambience of the lively 18th century town as it appeared on the eve of the American Revolution. From 1699 to 1780, Williamsburg was the capital of Virginia, the largest, wealthiest, and most populous of Great Britain's colonies in North America.

Visitor participation is a key ingredient at Colonial Williamsburg. In a legislative chamber at the Capitol, perhaps you'll given lines to recite in a debate on England's control of the colonies. At the Governor's Palace, the symbol of British authority in Virginia, tour members are taught how to bow and curtsey before the king. In the shady backyard of the James Geddy House, kids of all ages try the tree swing, roll giant hoops with a stick, and bowl a wooden ball in a game of nine pins.

At the trade sites, skilled artisans make everything from shoes to saddles. Stop and chat with the weaver or wig-maker, the blacksmith or silversmith, as they produce goods using technology of the period.

Four authentic colonial taverns offer meals served by costumed waiters. In the cozy, candle-lit cellar of Shields Tavern, the oldest eatery, diners enjoy entrees like seafood pie, buffalo prime rib, and fried chicken in cream gravy. The colonial appetizer platter features sweet potato and carrot puffs, sliced Virginia ham, and bacon-and-egg quiche. The bread basket brims with pecan rolls and corn muffins.

Traditional favorites at the elegant King's Arms Tavern includes oyster-stuffed filet mignon, game pie, and peanut soup. Christina Campbell's, patronized by George Washington, is noted for such seafood dishes as clam chowder, crab cakes, and muddle--a tomato-based stew of shrimps, scallops, and fish. Strolling balladeers fill the taverns with music of the era.

To further immerse yourself in the past, opt to overnight in one of the Colonial Houses, a collection of 27 guest houses scattered throughout the Historic Area. As small as one room and as large as 16 rooms, these quarters ($100 to $425 a night) are furnished with period reproductions; some offer fireplaces, sitting rooms, and efficiency kitchens. Many of the Colonial Houses overlook gardens, cobbled courtyards, or car-free Duke of Gloucester Street.