Best of Paducah: step back in time on the brick walks of this charming river city in western Kentucky - Vacation Focus - Brief Article

Travel America, May-June, 2002 by Randy Mink

For travelers who seek out places loaded with nostalgia, Paducah should be near the top of their list. It boasts more historical markers than any other city in Kentucky.

Paducah thrived during the steamboat era in the 1800s, thanks to its strategic location at the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee rivers. Also close to the Mississippi and Cumberland rivers, this crossroads city of 30,000 is about halfway between St. Louis and Nashville.

A logical place to start exploring is the riverfront, where the concrete floodwall features paintings of Paducah's past. Done by renowned mural artist Robert Dafford of Lafayette, Louisiana, and his crew, the colorful scenes depict chapters in the city's history, from its founding in 1827 by William Clark, of Lewis & Clark fame, to mule-drawn wagons hauling barrels of tobacco from the steamboats.

One mural remembers the devastating floods of 1884, 1913, and 1937. The '37 disaster covered most of Paducah and prompted construction of the 12.5-mile floodwall. Other scenes commemorate the city's churches, black community, and Civil War.

After a look at the murals, wander along the new riverfront park or take a horse-drawn carriage fide. In the compact downtown area, stroll down the brick sidewalks of Broadway, poking into antique and craft shops, some of them in cast-iron storefronts dating from the Victorian era. Dine at a brick-walled restaurant or pop into Hank Brothers Hardware, established in 1897 and now operated by the third generation of Hanks.

At the 1905 Market House, Broadway and Second Street, the selling of meats and fresh produce has given way to cultural activity. You can learn about Paducah history in the William Clark Market House Museum, see plays at the Market House Theatre, and admire art (changing exhibitions and a permanent collection) at the Yeiser Art Center.

On nearby Water Street, the River Heritage Museum spotlights the Four Rivers region and includes touch-screen computers and audio-visual stations. It's housed in the city's oldest building (1843), a former bank.

Many visitors come to downtown Paducah for one specific reason--to see the Museum of the American Quilter's Society, the largest quilt museum in the world. In keeping with the city's reputation for Americana and down-home warmth, the museum, established in 1991, displays 150 examples of this beloved art form in changing exhibits of antique and contemporary quilts. Its book shop offers more than 400 titles on quilting and textiles. Paducah, nicknamed "Quilt City U.S.A.," hosts the society's quilt show every April.

For a taste of Paducah's hospitality, stay overnight at one of its bed and breakfasts. Paducah Harbor Plaza, once the Hotel Belvedere, offers second-story rooms at a prime location on Broadway. In the nearby Lower Town Historic District, the Queen Anne-style Fisher Mansion presents breakfast in the formal dining room or fountain courtyard.

On the outskirts of town, Whitehaven Welcome Center occupies a columned 1860 mansion open to travelers 24 hours a day and has a second-floor room with memorabilia associated with Paducah native Alben W. Barkley, a U.S. senator who became vice president under Harry Truman. There's also a small Barkley museum in Lower Town.

On Saturday nights from May 4 to October 12, After Dinner Downtown Paducah festivities revolve around shopping, music, dancing in the streets, antique cars, and carriage rides. The annual Paducah Summer Festival (July 19-28) features free outdoor concerts, fireworks, hot air balloons, classic cars, carnival rides, and children's activities.

Contact: Paducah-McCracken County Convention & Visitors Bureau (TravelAmerica Magazine), 128 Broadway, Paducah, KY 42001; (800) PADUCAH; www.paducah-tourism.org.