American Orient Express: all aboard for nostalgia and deluxe service on the nation's premier private train - related article: Coasting Along in the Lap of Luxury

Travel America, May-June, 2002 by Bob Willis

One of the great 20th century travel experiences I'd often heard about as a kid was the grand American rail tour, a comfortable journey where one sat back in plush lounge chairs and watched America roll past the window.

That experience has been recreated by the innovative minds at the Oregon Rail Corporation, which has established the American Orient Express (AOE) I and II, privately owned luxury trains. They've rekindled the romance of railroading's golden era by producing a variety of journeys along tracks that thread some of America's best scenery.

The rail cars comprising the operation were built in the late 1940s and '50s and remained in use through the '50s, when passenger rail traffic gave way to the airlines. The operators of the American Orient Express collected many of these luxury cars in the early 1980s and in 1988 undertook complete restoration, spending in excess of $15 million. The cars were completely rebuilt and given all the love and attention needed to restore the original inlaid woods, polished brass, wall and ceiling murals, soft chairs, and deluxe appointments.

AOE travelers congregate in the bow-tailed observation car to retell stories of past railroad journeys and childhood train adventures. Others sit at the rear lounge looking back at the tracks just to see where they've been. On the ceiling, gold leaf stars peep out between realistically painted cumulus clouds. There are elegant vases filled with fresh-cut flowers in the public rooms and small arrangements at each dining room table.

You can turn back the calendar at least half a century when you climb aboard and stroll down the wood-paneled passageway to your suite or compartment. Relax in the privacy of your own parlor suite, curl up on a sofa with a good book, or just watch America unfold before your eyes to the steady clickety-clack of the rails. It's warm and cozy.

There's no "Survivor," CNN, MTV, or radio aboard, so you'll have to amble down to one of the club cars and join the folks searching for a few final edge pieces on a 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle or another group listening to a lecturer sharing insights on local lore, history, or geography. During the day, the club cars are meeting places where folks actually hold real conversations. At cocktail hour, or after dinner, the club car fills with the sounds of popular standards performed by talented pianists at the baby grand.

The predominately young staff is well trained and prepared to meet your every need. Just ring the porter and let him or her know when you'd like your bed turned down, when to bring your morning coffee and toast, or when you'd like to schedule a shower. There are about 30 personnel to serve a maximum of 100 passengers per trip.

In response to growing demand, the company this year has introduced its second train, American Orient Express II. And both trains will offer a new feature--Vista dome cars with glass-enclosed, second-story observation platforms, similar to those of the 1940s.

Accommodations range from vintage Pullmans with upper and lower beds (couch, sink, and water closet) to single sleepers, parlor suites, deluxe suites, and the presidential suites--double-size cabins that include a small private shower.

Along each of the routes, there are motorcoach excursions to cities, national parks, vineyards, scenic byways, and historic attractions. Also included are some memorable dinners and overnights at fine hotels.

The night preceding each rail journey, passengers are housed in a prime hotel where they are met by the train's staff and welcomed with a cocktail and dinner reception. After dinner, staff members inform passengers of safety procedures, discuss general housekeeping matters, and answer questions.

Meeting up with our travel companions, my wife Gloria and I were pleased to find a variety of worldly travelers of all ages, interests, and backgrounds. The common bond was simply the love of travel. On the first morning, we began with a three-hour local tour while our baggage was being transferred to our cabins. Around noon we boarded the American Orient Express for lunch and the first day of our adventure, having already chatted with a dozen or so of our fellow travelers.

To me, food plays an important role in travel. Here the AOE excels. The onboard chefs carry excellent professional credentials and present meals that are produced in small but immaculate stainless steel kitchens.

A casual continental breakfast is available for the early risers each morning in the club cars, or you can choose to dine in the comfort of the dining cars with a made-to-order breakfast feast. At lunchtime, light sandwiches and snacks are available in the club cars, and a full-course luncheon is served in the dining cars. When passengers are not enjoying local excursions, a pleasant afternoon tea is served in the club car, featuring the culinary artistry of the onboard pastry chefs. At cocktail time, the pianos are adorned with a choice array of hors d'oeuvres and cheeses.

We particularly enjoyed dinnertime each evening as it afforded us the opportunity to dine and converse with new friends from all over North America. The dining cars are decorated with dark woods, inlaid ceilings, carpeting, and soft, inviting chairs. Fine table linens, fresh flowers, china, and silver make for a warm and comfortable atmosphere. There are intimate tables for two, although most seat four. A typical dinner consists of a first course, soup, salad, a choice of five entrees, freshly prepared desserts, and complimentary house wine.