Rocky Mountain run: a luxury tour train spotlights the best of Canada's West

Travel America, May-June, 2005 by Pat Woods

LOOK LEFF -- GRAY FOX IN THE farmyard!" a man with a British accent exclaimed as the Rocky Mountaineer passed through pastoral countryside in British Columbia.

We were enjoying a gourmet breakfast in the dining car after boarding the sleek excursion train in Vancouver, B.C. Pulling out of the station, we had begun our two-day, 585-mile trip through the Canadian Rockies to Banff, Alberta, with a mimosa toast.

At the historic Fairmont Hotel Vancouver the night before, we dined like royalty at the elegant 900 West restaurant as creative chefs performed "food theater" at our table. The dinner and overnight stay was part of our rail package.

Following the Fraser River, the Mountaineer passed through the fertile agricultural valley and scenic Fraser Canyon. Crossing the South Thompson River, we caught a glimpse of snow-capped Mount Baker.

At an average speed of 35 to 40 m.p.h., the eastbound train crossed bridges, passed waterfalls, and navigated through canyons and narrow tunnels in five mountain ranges on the famed Kicking Horse route--all during daylight hours. A commentator shared fascinating railroad lore, described people and events that shaped Western Canada's history, and pointed out natural wonders and archeological features.

Watching the spectacular scenery--rushing rivers, towering cliff's, and thousands of acres of lush green forests--was relaxing and refreshing. Photography buffs stationed themselves on the open-air platform behind our car, hoping for a lucky shot. During the journey to Banff, we crossed or paralleled numerous rivers, returning waves from whitewater rafters. Wildlife sightings included osprey and eagle nests and a mountain goat.

Rocky Mountaineer offers two classes of service. Red Leaf guests ride in coach cars, where cold meals are served at their seats. Gold Leaf offers comfortable seats in dome cars with generous leg room. For breakfast and lunch, Gold Leaf guests descend a spiral staircase to dining car tables with white linens and fresh carnations.

Breakfast began with fruit and fresh pastries. Accompaniments to eggs Benedict, scrambled eggs, banana pancakes, and granola options included smoked bison sausage, Lobster, smoked salmon, spinach, and caviar.

While the first Gold Leaf seating went to breakfast, we had muffins, coffee, and tea to appease hunger. Before our late lunch seating, attendants served British Columbia wines, cheese, and crackers. The next day, we had early breakfast and lunch seatings.

Starting with soup or salad, lunch menus (with wine) offered salmon, pumpkin-seed crusted chicken breast, roasted Alberta bison, Alberta pickerel, pork loin, pasta, and vegetarian entrees.

Desserts included lemon cheesecake wedges with raspberry topping, an edible chocolate train, brownies, and Cape goosebenies.

The train stopped overnight in Kamloops. B.C. Motorcoaches delivered us to hotels in this sprawling riverside community of 85,000. After a refreshing swim, we enjoyed a four-course dinner.

Continuing our eastward journey, the scenery changed to vast ranch lands near Shuswap Lake and Craigellachie, where the last spike was driven to complete the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885. The train ascended steep Roberts Pass through pristine and otherwise inaccessible terrain with tunnels, glistening glaciers, and postcard views of snow-capped mountains.

In Yoho National Park, auto travelers stopped to watch the Mountaineer navigate two Spiral Tunnels, remarkable feats of engineering in which the engine exits the front end of the tunnel before the last cars enter the rear.

Near Lake Louise, we crossed the Continental Divide, the highest point of our journey at 5,332 feet, a fascinating spot where all rivers to the east flow toward the Atlantic, while rivers to the west make their way to the Pacific.

The rail portion of our spectacular Rocky Mountaineer excursion ended in Banff, a pretty mountain town surrounded by Banff National Park. Coaches took us to hotels and on tours of Banff and Lake Louise. Our dream vacation concluded with two days in Calgary.

Contact: Rocky Mountaineer Vacations, (800) 665-7245; www.rocky mountaineer.com.

Rail tours originate in Vancouver (eastbound) or Calgary (westbound). Choose from a plethora of itineraries with overnights and motorcoach tours in Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper, Alberta; and in Victoria and Vancouver, British Columbia. The basic two-day rail trip between Vancouver and Banff, depending on dates, is $869 to $1,119 per person, double occupancy, in Gold Leaf, $429 to $654 in Red Leaf.