Whole grain baking

Vegetarian Journal, Jan-Feb, 2002 by Nava Atlas

Few sensory experiences offer more pleasure than the wonderful flavors and aromas of homemade baked goods. Or better yet, hearty, nutty-flavored whole grain baked goods. Whole wheat flour is just one of several players in this healthful field that includes barley, oat, rye, and spelt flour, among others. Even if you don't have the time to make your own yeasted bread, quick baked goods can be equally rewarding.

The nutritional difference between refined and whole grain flours is significant. Grains that are refined before milling lose their germ and bran, and with them the loss of 50% or more of the B vitamins and minerals as well as much of the vitamin E content. While some of these nutrients are added back in the enrichment process, not all are. Enriched products still contain less magnesium, zinc, vitamin [B.sub.6], vitamin E, and chromium than whole grain products. In cases where the bran is completely removed, almost all of the fiber content is lost. Whole grains are excellent sources of minerals, including iron, potassium, phosphorus, and calcium. An excellent source of complex carbohydrates, whole grains, and their flour products can be one of the nutritional cornerstones of a healthy diet.

Baking at home creates an opportunity to make treats that are lower in fat and sugar than those you would buy in a store or a bakery. If you have children, it's a great way to get some whole grain goodness into their growing bodies. And most importantly, by baking at home, even if only occasionally, you convey to your family the connection between the heart and the hearth. Encouraging family members to join in the baking is a fabulous way to chase off winter doldrums. Warm, wholesome treats fresh from the oven nourish the body, soul, and senses all at once.

BUYING AND STORING WHOLE GRAIN FLOURS

Most natural foods stores and co-ops and some mainstream supermarkets carry an array of basic whole flours; well-stocked markets will also offer less common choices, such as oat, barley, and amaranth flours. Flour mills and mail-order sources are good bets, too. Purchase your whole grain flours from sources where you are confident there is a rapid turnover, to ensure freshness.

You'll notice that many of the flours and meals offered in natural foods stores are labeled stone ground. This is the traditional method of grinding grains with a stone mill. The grains are ground at a lower speed, generating less heat and thereby retaining more nutrients.

Because whole grain flours retain their natural oils when milled, they don't keep as long as their refined counterparts. Refrigerate whole grain flours that you plan to have on hand for more than two months. During warm months, it is best to refrigerate them at all times. If summer rolls around and you have little inclination to bake, you can even freeze flours in tightly-lidded containers. Otherwise, for normal use, keep flour in a cool, dry place in tightly-lidded jars or containers.

A good practice is not to buy more flour than you think you can use up within two to three months. Buy no more than one-pound bags of unusual flours that may be used only in small quantities or infrequently. It's especially important to keep flours dry, since they absorb moisture easily.

MAKING THE MOST OF WHOLE GRAIN FLOURS

When using flours and meals other than the wheats, keep in mind that these have little ability to rise on their own. But by replacing 25% to 30% of the wheat flour in leavened breads, or up to 50% in other baked goods, you can enhance their flavor and nutritional content without diminishing their ability to rise. Still, expect whole grain baked goods to be denser and nuttier, and not as highly-risen as baked goods made with refined flours. Fortunately, it's a taste that's easy to acquire.

Try some of the following flours in combination with wheat flour in muffins, rolls, quick breads, and yeasted breads, or in combination with whole wheat pastry flour in cakes, scones, cookies, and brownies. For flatbreads and griddlecakes, you may experiment with proportions, or substitute all of the wheat flour with an alternative flour.

AMARANTH FLOUR: Milled from the exceptionally nutritious seed crop that was long ago the staple food of the ancient Aztecs, amaranth flour has a distinctly nutty flavor and aroma. Combine with wheat flour or kamut flour, or for wheat-free baking, amaranth flour teams well with a lighter-textured flour such as barley.

BARLEY FLOUR: This delicate flour contributes to a moist, cake-like crumb when combined with wheat flour. Low in gluten, use in combination with wheat flour for baking, but used alone, it works well to make tender pancakes.

BUCKWHEAT FLOUR: A dark, intensely-flavored flour, this is milled from buckwheat groats, which are the hulled, crushed seeds of the buckwheat plant, but technically not a grain at all. Still, buckwheat flour has made its mark in blini (Russian crepes), soba noodles, sourdough breads, and buckwheat pancakes.

CORNMEAL: A revered food with Native American heritage, cornmeal comes in several varieties, including water-ground and stone-ground, as well as several hues--white, yellow, and blue. The tastiest cornmeal is stone-ground and un-degerminated, which can be purchased packaged or in bulk. With no gluten at all, cornmeal must be used in conjunction with wheat flour in any baked goods that need to rise.