Whole grain baking

Vegetarian Journal, Jan-Feb, 2002 by Nava Atlas

KAMUT FLOUR: A relative of durum wheat, kamut was all but lost to its ancient Egyptian heritage until it was revived by a Montana entrepreneur in the 1970s. Kamut flour is sometimes recommended for those allergic to common wheats. Powdery and mildly flavored, it can be used on its own to yield light-textured baked goods.

OAT FLOUR: Soft, delicate oat flour, finely milled from rolled oats, is a welcome addition to many forms of baking. Oat flour can replace up to 50% of wheat flour in baking powder-risen recipes, or used completely on its own in cookies.

QUINOA FLOUR: Milled from nutrient-dense quinoa, a revived ancient grain, quinoa flour contributes a tender, moist crumb and adds a rich, nutty flavor and aroma to baked goods. Substitute up to 50% quinoa flour for wheat flour in most any baking powder-risen recipes.

RICE FLOUR: Both white and brown rice flours are available; both have a mild character, but predictably, the latter is more nutritious. If rice flour is used in too high a proportion, the results can be dry and crumbly. Replace wheat flour with up to 25% rice flour in most any baked goods recipes.

RYE FLOUR: Dark rye flour, the least refined form of this type of flour, is even more nutritious than whole wheat flour. And who can resist fresh, hearty rye bread? Equal proportions of rye and wheat flour can be used in yeasted and quick breads or rolls. Rye flour is also a top choice for use in sourdough breads.

SPELT FLOUR: One of the most ancient of cultivated wheats, spelt, like kamut, has made an impressive comeback. Spelt flour has a flavor and texture similar to that of whole wheat flour, yet more complex. Like wheat flour, it is excellent for use in yeasted breads, where it can be used on its own.

TEFF FLOUR: The flour milled from the tiny teff seed has been a staple grain crop in Ethiopia for millennia. The main ingredient in injera, the national bread of that country, teff products have slowly made inroads in our country's natural foods markets. Try substituting 25% to 30% of wheat flour with assertively-flavored teff flour in baked goods.

WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR AND WHOLE WHEAT PASTRY FLOUR: The cornerstone of baking, wheat flour is set apart from the others by its high gluten content--that which gives it the ability to rise. Whole wheat flour, sometimes referred to as whole wheat bread flour, is milled from hard wheats with a high gluten content. Whole wheat pastry flour is milled from softer wheats with a lower gluten content and is ideal for muffins and desserts, including cakes and cookies.

Here's a sampling of simple-to-make baked goods and treats that are not only made with whole grain flour but are completely vegan. I have found that Ener-G egg replacer is a perfectly fine substitute for eggs in baked goods (look for it in natural foods stores). Applesauce and soy yogurt are great fat replacers and contribute to a tender crumb.

VEGAN CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

(Makes about 3 dozen)

(Featured on cover.) Since were a family of chocolate fans, I was particularly thrilled to perfect this cookie, which uses only a third of the sugar called for in Tollhouse cookies. The cupful of butter is replaced with applesauce and just a smidgen of oil. It's a chewy, rather than crispy, cookie, and I now make a batch weekly, as mandated by my sons, to use in place of store-bought cookies.