Lighten up with citrus

Vegetarian Journal, Jan-Feb, 2005 by Debra Daniels-Zeller

WITH BRILLIANT COLORS AND FLAVORS ranging from highly acidic to sweet-tart, the citrus family offers something for everyone.

HISTORY

The ancestor of modern citrus fruit is the inedible primitive citron, which probably originated in India. Arab traders brought mandarins from China to Italy during the Roman Empire. Soldiers under Alexander the Great took lemons from Assyria back to Greece. The British Navy used limes that were cultivated in the West Indies to prevent sailors from developing scurvy.

CULTIVATION

Climate plays a major role in citrus agriculture. It influences size, shape, flavor, color, texture, juice content, and thickness of the fruits' peel.

Citrus fruit grows well along the Gulf Coast and in California, Florida, and Texas, where the temperature is between 70 and 90 degrees. Heat and humidity produce sweet and juicy varieties, such as the renowned Indian River grapefruit. The sweet flavor, vibrant flesh, and development of lycopene in the Texas grown "Star Ruby" grapefruit is due to the high temperatures experienced while growing.

Citrus grown in cooler areas tends to be less juicy and more acidic. Lemons, for example, are better suited to the cool California coast. Some varieties, such as Satsumas, can withstand temperatures as low as 18 degrees. However, prolonged cold temperatures may take a toll on some citrus fruits, especially the smaller varieties. It may take three hours to damage a grapefruit or an orange at 27 degrees, but only an hour at 29 degrees to injure small lemons.

Citrus harvest occurs at different times during the year because "early" and "later" varieties grow in various locations.

SELECTION AND STORAGE

Select citrus fruit heavy for its size. A thick skin and light-weight fruit is a sign of an old citrus without much juice or flavor inside. Avoid citrus with soft or brown spots. Since conventionally-grown citrus fruits are sprayed heavily with pesticides and treated with fumigants for color or ripening, it's worth searching out organic varieties, especially if the peel will be used.

Since citrus fruit ripens on the tree, no further ripening is necessary once you bring them home. Ideally you should store citrus fruit loose in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to three weeks. Citrus stored at room temperature dries out, and the sugars may ferment. The fruit may also pick up off-flavors around it.

Citrus juice can be frozen, and I have found that you can freeze whole lemons and limes. Let them thaw before using. The peel will be too rubbery to use, but the juice is fine.

Varieties and Uses

CITRON

One of the oldest citrus fruits, the citron's seeds have been found in excavations dating back to 4000 B.C. The inedible flesh, which ranges between sour and slightly sweet, has a diluted lemon flavor. Citron juice can be used like lemon juice. The peel is pressed for oil and used as flavoring, or it may be candied and used in holiday fruit cakes.

GRAPEFRUIT

Descended from pummelos in Malaysia and hybridized with oranges in the West Indies, grapefruit has been cultivated for the last century. During the 1920s, the first pink grapefruit crops were developed in Texas. Grapefruit has a slightly bitter, yet sweet, taste. It can be used for juice, jam, or marmalade, and in fruit salads and vinaigrettes. It is also good baked, broiled, or grilled with maple syrup drizzled on top.

KUMQUAT

Originally from China, kumquats tolerate cold weather better than other citrus varieties. In the United States, they are grown mostly in Florida and California. They have a sweet peel, and the flesh is tart. Kumquats are usually eaten raw, but they are sometimes made into marmalade or pureed, with the seeds removed, for use in various dishes. Kumquatgrowers.com lists a number of recipes, such as sauce, bread, chutney, chips, and even oatmeal cookies, for the curious vegetarian cook.

LEMON

The lemon is thought to be a citron-lime hybrid that originated in India. During the 4th century, it was cultivated in Greece and Rome. In 1565, lemons were planted in Florida. The most versatile of all citrus fruit, lemons can be used in just about anything--from breakfast to dessert, from sweet to savory. The zest (grated peel) is also widely used.

LIME

Originally grown in India, limes also grow well in Egypt and the West Indies. The smallest members of the citrus family, limes have a distinct taste and are an essential ingredient in Southwestern, Asian, Mexican, Latin American, Caribbean, and other cuisines. Put them in marinades, add a little zest to soups or vinaigrettes, or make a lime granita for a decadent-tasting sweet treat.

MANDARIN

Tangerines, clementines, or mandarins--call them what you will. These small, easy peelers are native to China. Arab traders later transported them to Italy. Juicy and sweet with no seeds, they're perfect for a sweet treat. They can be used in the same ways that oranges are, and the peels can be zested to flavor just about anything from oatmeal to cobbler.

ORANGE

Native to China, oranges were grown in ancient Greece and later taken to India. They were originally small and bitter with many seeds, but over time, hybridization made them larger and juicier with fewer seeds. Oranges are categorized into two groups, sweet and sour. The sweet varieties include Valencia, navel, and blood oranges. Sour oranges, like Seville or Bigarade, are not eaten raw but made into marmalade or jam. Oranges enhance both sweet and savory dishes. Use the zest as well.