Beyond strawberry shortcake

Vegetarian Journal, March-April, 2003 by Debra Daniels-Zeller

ONE OF AMERICA'S FAVORITE DESSERTS, strawberry shortcake, became popular in the mid-1800s. It was originally a rich pastry with fruit baked inside that eventually evolved into a sweet biscuit pastry topped with fresh strawberries and fresh cream. Today, there are countless versions that use various cakes, such as sponge cake, pound cake, angel food cake, and the traditional biscuits. Many of the shortcake biscuit recipes are ultra-rich, calling for up to a stick of butter and then cream added on top of that. And, of course, they all call for the traditional strawberry topping with subtle variations.

The concept of using different toppings once occurred to me when I had an abundance of apricots and cherries a few years ago. I created a lavender-vanilla flavoring base for the fruit and layered the fruit between two halves of sweet maple-orange biscuits. Then, I topped it with my favorite vanilla soy yogurt. I was soon hooked on the great shortcake experiment, using cooked and raw fruits. Eventually, I moved on and used raw vegetables and finally cooked vegetables as sides and main dishes. Now, I often keep frozen sliced biscuits on hand, ready to thaw for quick dinners or easy desserts.

The biscuits can be sweet or savory, dropped or cut-out. There is no need to make them with excess fat, such as butter or cream, because seasonal fruit or vegetables provide plenty of flavor. To make biscuits sweeter you need only add a Tablespoon or two of maple syrup or fruit juice concentrate, or use part fruit juice in place of the soymilk. You can also add a sweet flavoring to the biscuit mix, like orange zest, cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, almond, or nutmeg. For savory biscuits, make them plain, or add a pinch of sage, rosemary, basil, or chipotle chili powder (smoked jalapeno). Or consider adding roasted garlic, chopped onions, sundried tomatoes, or corn.

As for sweet toppings, berries or other raw seasonal fruit can be marinated in liqueurs, fruit juice, or a small amount of frozen fruit juice concentrate. Some fruits, such as peaches, benefit from adding a bit of lemon juice to prevent the fruit from turning a darker shade. Use your imagination for topping creations, like combining Malibu rum or coconut extract with a bit of lemon and with peaches and bananas, or try a raspberry fruit juice concentrate with apricots. Strawberry-rhubarb goes well with ginger, blueberries, and raspberries. Combine well with freshly squeezed orange juice, or marinate them in Grand Marnier (an orange-flavored liqueur). You can easily make a "cream" topping using silken tofu blended with a ripe banana, some maple syrup, and a bit of lemon juice using a hand blender. Ripe seasonal fruit toppings are sweet enough without adding the additional sugar called for in many recipes.

Cold and warm savory toppings are also easy to put together. You can try a salsa topping with onions and chunks of tofu or beans, topped with slices of avocado and a squeeze of lime, or try tomatoes with chopped onions and garlic, basil, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. You can get other ideas looking through salad recipes and thinking about how to alter one that appeals to you for a biscuit topping. For warm main or side dish toppings, use a base of tempeh, tofu, or beans with lightly steamed or blanched seasonal vegetables. For garnish and toppings, use toasted nuts or seeds, shredded coconut, chopped parsley, cilantro, or grated carrots mixed with some lemon juice. And avocado or guacamole always makes a rich, decadent-tasting topping.

On the next pages, you will find a number of recipe examples with ideas for variations to get you started. These easy creations are homemade fast food gems that you can enjoy in your kitchen or out on the deck on warm spring days.