Exotic produce 101

Vegetarian Journal, March-April, 2005 by Nancy Berkoff

MORE AND MORE PRODUCE VARIETIES ARE available at your local grocery and farmers' markets. Yellow bell peppers, baby artichokes, grape tomatoes, and seedless cucumbers are almost commonplace nowadays. These are making room for candy cane (pink and white striped) beets, cherimoyas (custard apples), limequats (a natural cross of limes and kumquats), and Moro oranges (an original native of Italy, also called 'blood' or 'volcano' oranges for their fiery red interiors).

ASIAN PRODUCE

As interest in ethnic cuisine continues to grow, so does the need for Asian produce. Americans are inclining to spicy, aromatic foods that are the signature of most Asian cuisines, according to Greg Drescher, Director of Education at Greystone, the Culinary Institute of America's West Coast branch.

So, how about some Gai with your Fun? Asian greens are easy to prepare and attractive on the plate. For your family and friends, these greens are exotic enough to be interesting but familiar enough not to be scary. Below is a list of some Asian greens. Their definitions can be found online at <www.vrg.org/ journal/vj2004issue4/vj2004issue4healthyasian.htm>.

* Bok choy

* Napa (or Chinese) cabbage

* Gai choy (or mustard cabbage)

* Ong choy (water spinach)

* Gai Ian (Chinese broccoli)

* Asian basil (also called Thai basil)

* Asian mint (called shiso or green perilla)

* Cilantro

MORE ON ASIAN PRODUCE

Eggplant, or aubergine, did not originate in a field of parmigiana but rather in the woks of Asia. Asia n eggplants come in a rainbow that begins with the palest white and ends in the deepest royal purple, with pale greens and lavenders in between. Asian eggplant shapes start at tiny pea and oval egg, progress to tennis ball, and end at the usual oblong. Pea eggplants are chubby green balls that grow in clusters and add a welcome bitterness to curries and salads.

Thai eggplants resemble veggie golf balls and can be white and green, all white, or all green. They are crunchy and tart and appeal to American tastes.

Slender eggplants, also called baby or Japanese eggplants, are slightly spicy and are usually white-fleshed with edible purple skin. They can be used in soups, stir-fries, or cassoulets or as a side dish on their own. Use Japanese eggplant to make tempura along with the usual carrots, potatoes, squash, green beans, and bell peppers.

PREPARING ASIAN VEGETABLES

Asian veggies require little assembly. All you need is a little fast heat, a dash of sauce, and a small amount of liquid. You probably already have vegetable broth, ginger, garlic, onions, and soy sauce. You may want to add some of the following to your pantry so you can just stir-fry or saute, add some sauce, and serve up fast and easy gourmet Asian dishes:

* Garam Masala, which carries Indian, Malaysian, and Indonesian flavors, is a mixture of ground spices, usually containing cinnamon, black pepper, cumin, cloves, cardamom, and nutmeg.

* Hoisin Sauce is a thick, red sauce made from soybeans, garlic, sugar, and spices that adds a tang and sweetness to sauteed greens. (Check the label to ensure it is vegan.)

* Miso is a Japanese staple made from fermented soybeans and wheat, rice, or barley. It comes in a variety of colors and flavors. Miso has a wine-like taste and can be used in sauces and soups.

* Curry Paste spice combos are ground and mixed with oil to form fiery flavors. Every country and region has its own curry mixture. Indonesian sambal pastes have red chilies and (non-vegan) shrimp paste, while Ceylon curry has fennel, fenugreek, and cumin. Purchase a basic chili paste, many of which are vegan, and add your own signature fire.

* Soy Sauce There are many varieties of soy sauce. Chinese soy sauce is generally stronger, while the Japanese varieties of soy sauce are more delicate. There are even lower sodium versions. Have a tasting and match your menu items with the soy sauce you prefer.

ASIAN FRUITS

Many Asian fruits are becoming available to the consumer, such as the pummelo. The largest citrus on earth, this fruit tastes like a very sweet grapefruit and resembles this cousin on steroids. However, looks are deceiving, as pummelos are mostly very fragrant skin. The interior flesh can be white, yellow, or pink and is eaten like a navel orange. Pummelos are very seasonal and costs may vary, so include cautiously in your menu.

The blood orange, a hybrid of several types of sweet oranges, may have an entirely red or a red and orange striped interior. It is traditionally used for sauces and bar beverages. "Moro" is a new name for the blood orange. Usually seedless, the Moro is very aromatic, redolent with the scent of roses and berries. The culinary legend Escoffier preferred to use Moro orange juice in sauces and beverages to capitalize on both its flavor and its dramatic appearance.

We feel it is our responsibility to warn you against one fruit, however. Jackfruit is very popular throughout Asia, although its aroma is so strong that some hotels do not allow guests to bring fresh jackfruit into their facilities. Jackfruits usually weigh approximately 10-14 pounds each, are covered with a knobby brown skin that may remind you of a fruit-flavored armadillo, and have a multitude of black seeds. They have a flavor that could be compared, when downwind, to overripe protein. If you are still really curious about this item, you can find frozen cubed jackfruit and canned jackfruit juice in Asian markets.