Vegan Cajun and Creole cooking

Vegetarian Journal, May-June, 2004 by Kate O'Neill

LONG BEFORE CHEF PAUL PRUDHOMME started the Cajun food craze of the last two decades, the culinary traditions of southern and central Louisiana were well-loved throughout the world by those in the know. Although commonly associated with very spicy dishes, neither Cajun nor Creole food is usually found to be quite as hot in Louisiana as it is outside of the region. As in so many aspects of popular culture, sensationalism has won the day.

Nevertheless, the reputation for peppery, flavorful food is well deserved, and fortunately, the main characteristics of Cajun and Creole cooking easily cross over into the vegan kitchen.

WHAT'S IN IT FOR VEGANS?

In conventional Louisiana cooking, seafood plays an undeniably major role. But vegan and vegetarian diners can take comfort in the abundance of vegetables that grow readily in the area as well.

Inventive cooks can modify virtually any Cajun or Creole recipe with a little experimentation. If you're unsure, use the recipes in this article as guides until you feel comfortable with the flavors and styles of preparation. Then, try adapting one on your own!

CAJUN? CREOLE? WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?

These two culinary styles have little in common other than geography and the use of locally available ingredients. Cajun (a term that derives from a contraction of the word "Acadian") food is typically hearty, a little spicy, and generally comforting. Most Cajun dishes are simple, peppery, one-pot meals. Its closest culinary relative is probably Southern food or soul food.

Creole (pronounced 'CREE-ole'), on the other hand, owes more to French and Spanish cooking than to traditional Southern fare. In fact, its influences are commonly cited as some combination of French, Spanish, Indian, and African cuisines. Creole chefs aspire to grand cuisine by using French cooking techniques and employing locally grown ingredients. (The term "creole" is also applied to dishes made with a rich tomato sauce and usually served over steamed rice.)

Both styles of cooking rely heavily on the "Holy Trinity"--a blend of chopped or diced celery, green bell pepper, and onion. Garlic is a staple in both Cajun and Creole dishes, and rice enjoys favored grain status. Both styles of cooking use file (pronounced 'FEE-lay'), okra, pecans, oranges, and wine, as well as the usual variety of common Southern vegetables: green peas, string beans, carrots, yams, tomatoes, and so on. Beans of all kinds are also critical to Cajun and Creole foods.

Another key similarity is the use of a roux (pronounced 'roo') to start many dishes. A roux consists of oil and flour in some proportion (chefs differ over how much of each to use) cooked slowly and stirred constantly until it forms a thickening paste.

DON'T SKIP THE STOCK!

Good homemade stock is essential to successful Cajun and Creole cookery, and it isn't very difficult. It can be a simple matter of preparing your standard vegetables and boiling the trimmings in a pot of water to make a very basic stock. Even this is an improvement over using plain water.

MAKING THE ROUX

For the uninitiated, making a roux may seem excessive. But just try to duplicate a classic Cajun dish like gumbo without homemade stock and a roux, and you'll truly face a daunting task. Preparing a roux can be a relaxing, almost meditative experience.

Traditionally, a roux consists of one part fat to one part flour. The fat-conscious cook can make a dry roux. Dry roux will impart nearly the same flavor and serve as a thickener, just like traditional roux, but will lack the rich decadence of the original.

For the traditional version, melt vegan margarine or heat oil in a heavy pan over low to medium heat. Whisk in an equal amount of the flour until the mixture is smooth. Whisk constantly so that it does not burn, but allow the mixture to bubble slowly. Cook for about 2-3 minutes, or until it is pale golden in appearance. This is a white roux, and it will have lost some of its raw flour taste.

The longer you cook the roux, the more flavor it will develop. Blond roux is slightly darker and thinner in texture than a white roux. It cooks for approximately 6 minutes.

RECIPES

BASIC CAJUN SEASONING

(Makes 10 Tablespoons, or 5/8 cup)

File is ground sassafras leaves.

It has a delicate flavor and acts
as a thickener in soups and gumbos.
Be cautious of adding it too
early, though; it can become overcooked
and sticky.

1 Tablespoon cayenne
3 Tablespoons cumin
3 Tablespoons paprika
3 Tablespoons

Mix together and store in an airtight container.

Total calories per Tablespoon: 19 Carbohydrates: 3 grams Sodium: 5 milligrams

Fat: 1 gram Protein: 1 gram Fiber: 2 grams

SAFFRON RICE

(serves 6)

4 1/2 cups water
1 teaspoon saffron threads
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups uncooked long-groin white rice

Combine water, saffron, and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil.

Add rice, cover, and let cook for 15-20 minutes or until liquid is absorbed.

Total calories per serving: 225 Carbohydrates: 49 grams Sodium: 764 milligrams

Fat: <1 gram Protein: 4 gram Fiber: 1 gram