Tomato Heaven - Recipe

Vegetarian Journal, July, 2001 by Nava Atlas

"Too many tomatoes!" I've seen numerous articles--and even a book--titled with this phrase. If only I could share this lament. This summer, I've been growing three different varieties of tomatoes on my deck. They've had a fairly prolific yield, but every time my sons spot a handful of ripe ones, they're plucked straightaway and eaten out of hand. While others complain about having to make industrial-sized pots of sauce, I barely have enough tomatoes to make a salad. My husband and I have been able to steal but a few tastes of the yellow and red grape tomatoes and Romas. We have smart kids--they already understand that there's no better way to eat an excellent organic tomato than straight from the vine and warm from the sun.

Still, tomatoes are among the most nourishing and versatile of vegetables (or are they fruits? I'll address this question shortly), and it's handy to have a cache of ideas to draw upon when their season is in high gear. Whether you grow barrels of tomatoes in your own garden or buy them by the bushel from the local farmers' market, read on for simple, tasty recipes, tips on preparation and storage, nutritional news, and more.

THE TOMATO'S INTREPID TRAVELS

Tomatoes are believed to have been cultivated by the Aztecs and Incas as early as the 8th century, CE (Common Era). The European conquistadors carried the tomato back from Central and South America to their homelands in seed form in the sixteenth century. Tomatoes found favor in Spain, Italy, and Portugal. For some time, though, Europeans were wary of tomatoes, regarding them more as aphrodisiacs and objects to admire than as sustenance. The French once called the tomato pomme d'amour, which translates as "love apple." On the other hand, as members of the sometimes deadly nightshade family, tomatoes were long considered poisonous. Even as recently as the mid-nineteenth century some cookbooks recommended boiling them for several hours to reduce the risk of eating them. I wonder what might be left of a tomato that's been boiled for several hours!

Spanish colonists were most responsible for the tomato's international route. It made its way to Africa and Asia, where cooks began using it in stews and curries, and eventually full circle back to the New World. From the Caribbean, the tomato made its way to what was to become the southern United States, thus cementing its stronghold in nearly every major world cuisine. Today, polls suggest that tomatoes are the third most popular vegetable in our culture, just behind potatoes and lettuce. Most tomatoes grown commercially in the US come from Florida and California.

FRUIT OR VEGETABLE? THE TOMATO ON TRIAL

Botanically, tomatoes are actually fruits--a fruit being defined as the edible part of a plant containing the seeds, while vegetables are the edible stems, leaves, and roots.

The debate over whether tomatoes belong in the fruit or vegetable category once went all the way to the US Supreme Court over a tariff' dispute on imports. In 1893, the court ruled that though tomatoes are the fruit of the vine, as are squashes and beans, they "are usually served at dinner ... and not, like fruits generally, as a dessert." Thus, by decree of the US Supreme Court, the tomato is legally a vegetable!

BASIC TOMATO TECHNIQUES

Drying: Think you like dried tomatoes? Just wait until you dry your own. The process is incredibly simple and rewarding. You don't need a dehydrator, and unless you live in Tuscany, you don't need the sun, either. All you need is your oven and a little bit of patience. Flavorful plum or Roma tomatoes work most successfully with this technique. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Arrange cut side up on a baking sheet. Bake at 200 degrees for 2 to 3 hours, or until they look somewhat collapsed and with edges slightly shriveled. Use as you would sun-dried tomatoes, or eat as a snack.

Grilling: Slice large, firm tomatoes at least 1/2-inch thick, or cut plum tomatoes in half lengthwise. Brush lightly with olive oil. Cook on a prepared grill on both sides until the edges brown, about 5 to 8 minutes total. Mesh-type grill toppers are useful for grilling tomatoes since they tend to go so soft. Cherry tomatoes are great for using in grilled kebabs. No special preparation is needed aside from basting with whatever marinade you are using.

Pureeing: Place large chunks of tomato into the workbowl of a food processor. Process until evenly pureed. If you want a smoother puree, put them through a food mill, which will remove the seeds and small bits of skin.

Seeding: If a recipe calls for seeded tomatoes, simply cut them in half vertically (that is, through the stem end), and scoop out the seeds with a small spoon, such as the 1/2-teaspoon measure of a measuring spoon set.

Skinning: Removing the skin from tomatoes is not as complicated as it might seem. All you need to do is plunge tomatoes into boiling water for 10 seconds, then remove. Once the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, the skins slip off easily.

BUYING AND STORING TOMATOES