Diner sandwiches revisited

Vegetarian Journal, July-August, 2003 by Debra Daniels-Zeller

A diner is "a restaurant usually resembling a dining car in shape."--Webster's Dictionary

THE DINER ERA

In the past decade there has been a revival of interest in diners. While most of us think of diners as pop culture--a piece of Americana, nostalgia in its purest form--they were the common man or woman's restaurant in a unique American style of architecture in the '50s. Though fast food chains replaced many of them in the '60s, diners are now considered classic example of American cultural history. In 1998 seven diners we added to the National Register of Historic Places.

Diners were not an offshoot of the railroad industry but an evolution from walk-up lunch wagons with limited menu selections. Walter Scott created the first lunch wagon in Providence, Rhode Island, in 1872. These mobile eateries were wooden wagons converted into short-order eating establishments. By 1884 they were stationary indoor luncheonettes with decorations on the walls and stools at a counter. By 1920 the diner bad evolved to the classic look of a railroad dining car, hence the name "diner." Early on, some railroad cars were used to create diners, but by the '30s commercial diner manufacturing companies were as busy as car manufacturers, turning out the popular eating establishments. Booths were eventually created to attract women and families, but the essential part of every diner remained the counter and stools where regular customers dined alone, often chatting with the waitress or other customers. There were some wooden diners, but most had shiny stainless steel exteriors, with bright colors and neon signs. In 1943, 13 companies manufactured diners, and in the '50s and early '60s, diners were a traveler's restaurant of choice. Diners were a part of communities where strangers came together as friends, and the food was simple, homey, and filling.

Short-order cooking was the norm in diners; food and service was informal. Though it's trendy to think of '50s food with nostalgia for the past, food selections in diners were generally fried, overcooked, or high in fat. The menu boards were brief, featuring "specials of the day." Menus included such items as biscuits and gravy, meatloaf sandwiches, hot dogs, baked beans, French fries, and chicken fried steak, with a few salad selections.

REINVENTING DINER SANDWICHES

The real comfort food of diners in the '50s probably served up enough artery-clogging fat for everyone in town, but what we really want today is comfort food without the incredible portions of fat. Intrigued by the concept of diner food, especially hot sandwiches, I found that by using lower fat vegetarian substitutions, we can still evoke comfort feelings without the greasy animal products or calorie-laden ingredients. In other words, we can still have the diner look, taste, and comfort feel without the heavy diner fare feeling after we eat.

Reinventing diner sandwiches involves finding the right vegetarian substitutes, such as portabello mushrooms for burgers, crumbled tempeh for a "meaty" texture, warm sliced seitan instead of chicken, and bean or lentil loaf for meatloaf. And when making your own sandwich versions, remember there are vegan faux meats, including bacon and soy sausage variations. Check the soy dairy case in your local market for selections, but be sure to read the ingredients to make sure they are dairy- and egg-free.

Baking, roasting, and using minimal oil in cooking reduces the fat content, and when fat is reduced, taste can be elevated with marinades, herbs and spices, or condiments, such as barbecue sauce and your own sauce creations. Consider any type of vegan sauce you might find when perusing cookbooks fair game for adding to your own creative diner sandwiches. Silken tofu makes a good base for sour cream-like sauces. You can also use pureed vegetables, such as roasted peppers, to top your diner sandwich recreations. And additions, such as spicy gourmet peppers, sauteed onions, or strips of roasted peppers, turn average sandwiches into gourmet diner sandwiches.

The type of bread you choose is also important to the whole look and taste of the sandwich. Here too, there are many options to consider. You may want your hot filling stuffed inside pita bread, heaped onto freshly baked biscuits or a burger-type bun, layered on dark whole grain or rye bread, or spooned over English muffins. You could even lightly grill the bread with a thin coating of soy margarine or olive oil to help brown the bread. Any of your favorite diner sandwich recollections or dream creations can be made into a tasty, lower fat vegan version.

Once you make your sandwich selection, consider side additions, such as baked beans, coleslaw, baked country fries, mashed potatoes, or simple braised collard greens. Many of the side dishes can be made up to a day ahead and simply reheated to go with your hot sandwiches. A collection of great sandwiches, sauces, spread creations, and a few side dishes to go with your sandwich follow. How about inviting some neighbors over and having a diner sandwich party tonight? Better yet, make it a potluck diner sandwich party and see what wonderful vegan side dishes your friends bring.