Coconut Cooking

Vegetarian Journal, Sept, 2001 by Nancy Berkoff

Many of us in the States think of coconuts as a decadent treat. In Indonesia there is a saying that there are as many uses for coconuts as there are days in the year. In India the belief is, "He who plants a coconut tree plants vessels and clothing, food and drink, a habitation for this generation, and a heritage for future generations." Coconut wood is used to make furniture, and fibers from the leaves are used to make rope, baskets, brushes, rugs, and fabric. The shell can be used as organic Tupperware or for cooking and heating fuel, and the sap can be fermented into an alcoholic beverage. Milled and compressed coconut husks are sold for use as soil conditioners as an alternative to sphagnum peat. Coconut oil is used to make soap, shampoo, detergent, hand lotion, (edible) milk substitutes, and a cooking liquid that can be used in candy and baked goods. Coconut pulp, water, or juices, and coconut milk are important ingredients in many cuisines.

While traveling in Sri Lanka we saw patients in a field hospital given fresh coconut water (the fluid found inside the coconut) right from the shell, as this was considered a safe and sanitary source of fluid. In southern Thailand, coconut juice and meat were used in cooking and the shells were used to fuel the took stove. In India we purchased a whole, fresh, iced coconut from a street vendor for about a nickel (we were advised that this was a tasty and safe alternative to tap water), and in the West Indies street vendors sold coconut pulp sauteed in palm oil and sprinkled with cane sugar (you might need a note from your cardiologist for this treat!).

The coconut is not a nut at all, but a drupe, a category of fruit. If you're considering adding a coconut palm to your landscaping (and live in a tropical climate), leave lots of air space, as coconut palms can grow as high as 100 feet. Once they reach full height, which takes 5-7 years, a coconut palm will yield 5-6 coconut bunches annually, with about a dozen coconuts per bunch (get the mai tai glasses ready). The coconut is a fruit of several layers. There are outer hard and thin husks for protection, coconut pulp lining the shell, and coconut water (also called coconut juice) contained inside. The older the coconut, the thicker the coconut water; very mature coconuts have an almost custard-like water. Coconut milk does not "occur" in the coconut, but is man-made by mashing coconut pulp--but I'll talk more about that later. Coconuts are harvested at different times of maturity. The younger the coconut, the softer, but less sweet, the pulp, and the more plentiful the water. Young coconut is used more in savory dishes, such as curries and pilafs, and older coconut in sweet dishes.

Coconut milk is not the thin stuff found when sipping on a coconut; that's coconut juice. And it's not the really thick and gooey stuff used to make tropical drinks; that's cream of coconut, made by adding lots and lots of sugar to coconut milk and boiling it. Coconut milk is a combination of coconut pulp and water. Most grocery stores carry coconut milk (always go for the unsweetened); try Asian or Hispanic stores. Or make your own. Dry, unsweetened coconut flakes (or dried fresh, grated coconut) can be combined with equal amounts of boiling water in a blender (be careful!). Puree, let sit for a minute and strain, pressing to get all the liquid. Your coconut milk is ready to use. If you want to get some of the fat out, an alternate way to prepare coconut milk is to simmer coconut with water over a low flame for about 30 minutes. Strain and let stand; a layer of "cream" will develop. You can skim this off and discard it. Coconut cream is wonderful used in baked dishes instead of soymilk or pureed tofu. You can add it to coffee or use it as a topping on hot or cold cereal. If you want to store it, it must be refrigerated, as it is perishable and can support bacterial growth if left too long at warm temperatures. Coconut milk should last about 3 days in the fridge; if it separates, just shake or stir to mix. Coconut milk does not freeze well, so plan your amounts carefully.

You can make your coconut milk thicker or thinner depending on your preference--just add more or less water. If using it for sauces or curries, you might want thicker milk. For use in smoothies or as a beverage ingredient, you might want thinner milk. For cooking, coconut milk is a versatile ingredient, offering creaminess without dairy. Coconut milk is the backbone of "creamy" dishes without the cream and is used in sweet and savory dishes. It is heated as a fast dessert sauce in Vietnamese cuisine, used as a basis for Puerto Rican "tembleque," or coconut pudding, in Caribbean rice and bean soups and stews, and to finish curries in Thailand and India.

It can be a thickener, used instead of heavy cream, used as a substitute for water in both stews and puddings, used to deglaze a pan, or as a cooking liquid for veggies (try corn) or for noodles. It can be frozen with a small amount of sweetener to make a sorbet.