A Vegan Parisian Travelogue

Vegetarian Journal, Nov, 2000 by Katherine Ludwig Moses

The arty Marais area with tiny sidewalks bordering tiny cobblestone streets and an abundance of gay nightclubs is home to AQUARIUS (54, rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004, Tel: 01 48 87 48 71). Dark wood furnishings and a coffee house vibe make this large place inviting and comfy. We were really excited as we received the oversized menu at our cute wooden table on the balcony, but alas, there wasn't much choice for vegans. At our server's suggestion we each ordered the plat dujour, which turned out to be a large dish piled high with quinoa, soy sausages, beans, a hot vegetable, and salad. It was so satisfying that it seemed a steal at 102ff for both of us! Though we weren't in the mood for stewed prunes, which was the only vegan dessert available, we enjoyed lingering over tea at this busy and casual establishment. We didn't make it over to its sister restaurant at 40, rue de Gergovie 75014 Tel: 01 45 41 36 88.

Being veterans of NYC's 80's East Village, we loved our more than two-hour stay at AU GRAIN DE FOLIE (24, rue de la Veiuville 75018, Tel: 01 42 58 15 57) in Montmarte near Sacre-Coeur. This small, comfortably bohemian spot, which is also the pick-up location for an organic produce buying club, is hidden on a teeny-tiny residential back street and is run by a lovely French woman happy to proffer her guidance in English concerning the menu as well as France in general. Any of the eighteen seats at five tables would be just as accommodating to someone nursing a side of hummus for 30ff while they wrestle with their journal entry, as to a party settling in for a big dinner from appetizer to dessert. My husband and I were starving, so we were happy to fall into the latter category. We each ordered the formule, which this day was a platter overflowing with Tarte des legumes (the best veggie pie in the world), brown rice, stewed veggies, bean pate, delicately herbed lentils, and a crispy shredded cabbage salad served with fresh bread and a glass of house wine. A fine example of French cuisine, this magnificent meal costing 105ff each ended with an apple crumble dessert and coffee. We ordered extra slices of pie for 30ff because it was so excellent, and left the cafe happy, full, and enchanted with this establishment.

Katherine Ludwig Moses, the mother of one-year-old Max, is excited by well-stocked health food stores and preparing simple vegan dishes. She has recently finished a series of articles for teen Machine Magazine and has contributed to Paper and High Times, among others. In what seems to her like another lifetime, she was the editor of a music magazine and traveled extensively.