Sports Publications

Common threads: the fabric of performance apparel

Coach and Athletic Director, Oct, 2006 by Kevin Newell

Performance apparel represents one of the fastest growing sectors of the textile and clothing industry. Market growth is being fueled by the emergence of new fibers, fabrics, and innovative process technologies.

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Today's technology encourages breathability, thermal insulation, moisture management, and odor neutralization. Industry buzzwords run the gamut from wicking to anti-microbial to climate control. And, increasingly, high-tech fabrics and apparel designed for high-performance wear are crossing over into everyday fashion.

Not surprisingly, sports have been a boon to its popularity.

To get a feel for the market, Scholastic Coach & Athletic Director asked a roundtable of company executives and marketing directors for their take on what coaches and AD's should be aware of when purchasing performance apparel for their teams. Our panel included: Steve Battista, VP/Brand, Under Armour; Dottie Dye, VP Marketing/Merchandising, M.J. Soffe; Bob McDavid, President, McDavid Sports/Medical Products; Efraim Nathan, President, Lontex Corp., and Ryan Oliver, Director of Marketing, Zensah.

What is the most important thing consumers should know when selecting the right performance apparel?

Battista: "Our number one job from a marketing standpoint is telling the story, and that means ensuring that the consumer understands the term 'performance apparel' is not just a generic term covering any and all clothing that could be worn in a sports setting. We created the performance apparel category to be exclusive to apparel that does something for you through its synthetic fabrications. That's why we call our logo the Universal Guarantee of Performance, because we don't make 'regular' or cotton products. Ultimately, getting athletes out of cotton is our goal."

Dye: "Performance apparel should deliver the obvious--it performs. Most performance apparel has the wicking properties that move moisture away from the body and quick evaporation time enabling the garment to dry faster."

McDavid: "They should know what is the specific performance feature or features they are looking. Performance apparel is a catch-all name that implies that the product will provide certain benefits that will make the athlete better. Most of these products have a moisture management (or wicking) component that allows sweat to evaporate quicker. This means that the garment will be drier, lighter, and cooler so the athlete is more comfortable and can perform better. This is often also described as temperature moderating--keeping the body cooler in hot weather and warmer in cool weather.

"All performance apparel products are synthetic, usually nylon or polyester. It is important to realize that all performance apparel products are not the same. It is difficult to know the differences because the performance feature cannot be seen or felt. So the consumer must rely on his or her direct experience or the recommendation of others. There are many good products out there and there are many that claim to be performance but they really are not. I have seen some brands that claim to have moisture management properties but when we test them they do not. Also, most brands use topically applied chemicals to enhance wicking that washes out after 5-10 washings. In our view this is unacceptable."

Nathan: "Cotton is natural. Wool is natural. Silk is natural. Which means you cannot alter it. The first thing is to let the consumer know that cotton is bad for them if they are trying to perform an activity that requires them to sweat. Cotton is not comfortable to wear in the wintertime because when you perspire, it freezes to your skin and creates a chill. In the summer, cotton will absorb perspiration. Cotton fiber has no exit. So it swaddles the water and it becomes saturated. When it becomes saturated it stays there for 24-30 hours at room temperature.

"In 1992, DuPont invented a manmade-fiber called CoolMax. They basically said, 'We have to invent a fiber that has exit and entrance.' It is noted for its breathability and moisture wicking properties. Then Nike came up with Dri-FIT. The first people that understood what it meant to wick moisture away was the individual sports, not the team sports.

"There are three things a consumer should ask a retailer before buying a product that claims it has moisture management properties: How does it work? How does it wick moisture away and for what length of period? How many times can I wear and wash it?"

Oliver: "I think what's important to mention is that not all performance apparel is created equal. People should definitely look at the make-up of a products because if they really do their homework they will notice that many of the big brands out there are made in the same factories and are made of the same yarns."

What are the differences between compression-wear and loose-fitting wear? What are the benefits of each?

Battista: "There may be a misconception that only weekend warriors or part time athletes wear our loose fitting HeatGear, but the fact of the matter is we're seeing growth across the board in our core LooseGear offerings, our Streaker collection, and in our Tech T program which is comprised of fabrics that look like cotton, feel like cotton, but perform like Under Armour. Meanwhile, we're seeing our core compression business continue to be a staple of the athlete's wardrobe, and new designs and technology, like our color blocked Blitz HeatGear program and our new Metal collection, have provided our athletes higher levels of performance."