The abomitable snowman? Protecting our skin from winter's grasp

Better Nutrition, Dec, 1998 by Karyn Siegel-Maier

Protecting our skin (and hair) from winter's grasp.

Hair- and skin-loving ingredients

THESE INGREDIENTS NOURISH SKIN AND PROTECT HAIR:

Herbs: rosemary, nettle, chamomile, calendula, horsetail, geranium, carrot.

Oils: jojoba, wheat germ, evening primrose, almond, avocado, flaxseed.

Now that winter is in full swing, it's time to evaluate your personal care regimen. Just as you change your wardrobe from season to season, so should you shift your approach to caring for your skin and hair. This must mean that you can forget about using the sunscreen you needed in July, right? Wrong.

Although we do tend to spend more time indoors during the winter months, it doesn't mean we no longer need to protect our skin from the sun. For those who are challenged by winter sports, the need for protection is even greater. The exposure to ultraviolet light (UVA and UVB) may seem more subtle in winter than in summer, but, even on the most overcast winter day, the sun shines through and is reflected from surfaces, especially if the ground is covered with snow. Whether it be from a tinted foundation, or from a moisturizing lotion, a daily application of a sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) between 15 to 30 is essential for everyone.

The skin is also assaulted by other elements characteristic of the winter season, such as chafing wind and constant exposure to heated, dry indoor air. Your skin needs special nurturing at this time of year and it's important to practice a few simple basics.

Proper Cleansing: Soap can be terribly drying to your skin at any time of year, but especially so in winter. And, if you're ever tempted to reach for the liquid hand soap kept on the side of the wash basin, don't. Many of these liquid soaps are actually detergents. Your goal is to gently remove dirt, not strip away most of the natural oils in your skin.

Your best bet is to start and end your day by gently washing with a good vegetable-based soap or cleanser, Moisturize with an alpha-hydroxy lotion, paying particular attention to areas around the eyes, mouth, and throat. If your skin is very sensitive, you might want to try a beta-hydroxy lotion. Like alpha-hydroxy acids, it bonds water to skin, but is gentler.

I often use a light mixture of sandalwood essential oil and mineral water and spritz my face to "revitalize" the moisturizer throughout the day.

Bathing Tips: Bathing or showering in very hot water may feel good, but it's also damaging and drying to your skin. A glycerine/herbal bath bar is best to use since many bath gels and soaps contain alcohol and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), both drying agents. (SLS is found in engine degreasers and is the standard agent used in testing labs to irritate skin.) After bathing, gently pat, don't rub, the skin dry and apply an alpha-hydroxy acid-containing moisturizer to slightly damp skin.

Hair today, gone tomorrow: Your hair needs special attention, too, and you should select natural shampoos and conditioners (again, without SLS) with the same care that you do skin products. If you have very long hair (as I do), washing it more than 3-4 times a week will result in breaking and split ends. You should also allow your hair, long or short, to air-dry whenever possible. Blowing heat from hair dryers can be very damaging to your hair. If you must use a blow dryer, use the lowest setting possible. Conditioners, for the most part, only coat the hair shaft, and don't penetrate to repair the damage.

REFERENCES

Siegel-Maier, Karyn. How to Make Herbal Cosmetics. Saugerties, N.Y.: Herbal Muse Press, 1995.

Worwood, Valerie Ann. The Complete Book of Essential Oils and Aromatherapy. San Rafael, Calif.: New World Library, 1991.

Karyn Siegel-Maier is a freelance writer who specializes in herbs, alternative medicine, and new age issues. Karyn is a frequent contributor to national and regional magazines, newsletters, newspapers, and other publications. She is currently working on a series of herbal books.