Coming Clean - soap - composition

Better Nutrition, Feb, 2001 by Karyn Siegel-Maier

Get the real dirt on what's in your soap (and what shouldn't be there)

OUR STANDARDS OF PERSONAL HYGIENE HAVE CHANGED DRAMATically since the 18th century. No longer do we fear "throwing out the baby with the bath water" since the days of the entire family taking turns in the same tub of soapy water each week are long gone. No, modern plumbing allows most of us to relish in private showers on a daily basis and, to keep up with our demands, the cosmetic industry has not fallen short of providing a vast array of soaps and cleansers in which to wash away the sins of dirt. Unfortunately, soap itself has also undergone major tranformations and what you may be buying off the shelf today may be considered anything but "clean."

Soap basics

Soap is made by combining a fat source (either animal or vegetable) and an alkali (acid) in a chemical process known as saponification. In spite of efforts to promote bathing as an immodest act by some factions of the early Christian church, the soap industry came into its own in the 12th and 13th centuries in Italy and France. By the 16th century, soapmaking became a prosperous industry in England and by the mid-17th century, the New England colonists benefited from exporting much-needed soap ash and animal fats to England. Soon, the territories now known as New Hampshire and Maine profited greatly from these exports and eventually became the heart of soap manufacturing in the United States.

Early soaps were made by boiling goat or sheep tallow (fat) with water and hardwood ash (alkali), although Italian and French soapmakers explored the use of olive oil in place of animal fats to improve texture and quality. But, commercial Soaps, as we know them today, may contain a variety of other chemicals that are not neutralized in the manufacturing process and that are being applied to your skin every day.

What's in your soap?

In 1938, under the U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic (FD&C) Act, cosmetics were legally defined as any product used for the purpose of "cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance" without affecting bodily function. Products that come under this category include sprays, lotions, powders, deodorants, facial makeup and, you guessed it, soaps. Unlike products that are classified as both a cosmetic and a drug (such as fluoride toothpaste) cosmetics and their individual ingredients do not need FDA approval before appearing on the market. In fact, the FDA has no regulatory authority over these products and their ingredients until after they appear on the market, and only if it can be determined that they have caused direct harm to human health. Furthermore, the fact that many soaps and cleansers are formulated from a variety of combined chemicals complicates the issue further. Only about 16 percent of cosmetics have been tested for toxicity by the FDA-- although it does require companies to label cosmetics with a warning if they contain irritants or hazardous substances.

Curious now about what you're taking a bath with? Here's a brief rundown on some potentially harmful ingredients found in many commercial soaps:

A-pinene -- Derived from the resinous sap of pine trees, this substance is a major component of turpentine and can damage the immune system.

A-terpineol -- This chemical is extremely irritating to your mucus membranes. Frequent or prolonged exposure (and especially repeated inhalation) can also cause edema, as well as respiratory difficulties.

Benzaldehyde -- Also called oil of bitter almond, this substance is a narcotic and anesthetic that can depress the central nervous system. When inhaled, it can bring on vomiting, dizziness and a sudden drop in blood pressure.

Benzyl Acetate -- An eye and lung irritant and known carcinogen (cancer-causer) that has been associated with pancreatic cancer.

Ethanol -- Appears on the EPA Hazardous Waste List and is used in the manufacture of varnish and paint remover. This chemical can irritate the respiratory tract and can cause impaired vision and loss of muscle control.

Linalool -- A narcotic that can impair respiratory function and motor activity. Linalool also attracts bees which can be a problem for those allergic to bee stings.

Sodium Laurel Sulfate (SLS) -- Used to increase absorption of other chemicals; it is also a "wetting agent" that allows shampoo to spread out and penetrate more easily. SLS breaks down lipids (fats) and impairs the skin's ability to retain moisture. It is classified as a "mutagen," meaning it can alter cellular genetic material. In fact, SLS has been used in Japanese studies to promote bacterial mutations.

Triclosan -- A bactericide (anti-bacterial) and mutagen that is readily absorbed through the skin. It's also an eye irritant and associated with causing liver damage.

A new generation of chemicals-resistant supergerms?

It should also be said that the overuse of chemical antibacterials, such as triclosan, has created a widespread problem of a new generation of bacteria that have mutated to become resistant to these harsh chemicals. According to research from Tufts University, triclosan-containing antibacterial soaps used in the home can become breeding grounds for creating a strain of resistant bacteria.