Chocolate: more than an obsession - Recipe

Better Nutrition, Feb, 2002 by Lisa Turner

RELATED ARTICLE: The wheat from the chaff.

Specific characteristics mark the difference between fine chocolates and an ordinary candy bar, according to Corinne Moore, president of Chocoholic.com in Merrimack, N.H. Some of the most important:

TASTE. Is it bitter, sweet or somewhere in-between? Darker chocolates have a higher cocoa content and are usually more bitter, but a quality chocolatier can tone down the bitterness so the flavor is smooth and even.

TEXTURE. A good chocolate should be smooth and velvety, almost melting in your mouth. A grainy or gritty texture isn't considered a plus in the chocolate world.

COCOA CONTENT. Most range from 30 to 75 percent cocoa. Gourmet chocolate bars usually hover in the area of 60 percent. Inexpensive chocolates generally have a lower cocoa content. ORIGIN. Though most chocolatiers use a blend of different beans, some prefer to stick to a favorite brand. Each should be able to tell you where their beans originate. A South African cocoa bean, for example, will have a different flavor than a Mexican cocoa bean. (One chocolatier, International Chocolate, sells "single-bean" chocolate bars--each bar is made from a specific region and, like fine wine, each has its own unique flavor.)

PRESENTATION. This includes not only the packaging but also the design of the chocolate. Some chocolatiers only sell bars, but many have distinctive shapes--Joseph Schmidt, for example, is known for his beautiful egg-shaped truffles.

OTHER INGREDIENTS. Most gourmet chocolatiers use only natural ingredients, and very few, if any, use preservatives. This will affect not only the taste but also the shelf life of a chocolate.

Want to sample some of the world's finest chocolates? Gather a group of friends for a chocolate tasting party. Purchase four or five high-quality chocolate bars, arrange each on a plate with the name of the chocolate on a small card, and offer champagne or sparkling water as a palate cleanser. Here is a sampling of some especially fine selections:

Moonstruck Chocolatier: Portland, Ore.

Valhrona: France

Cafe-Tasse: Belgium

Scharffen Berger: San Francisco, Calif.

Michel Cluizel: France

Cote d'Or: Belgium

Nirvana: Belgium

Schokinag: Germany

Max Brenner: Israel

Richard H. Donnelley Fine Chocolates: Santa Cruz, Calif.

Most of these are available at gourmet shops and some natural products stores. For more great chocolate selections, check out www.chocoholic.com or www.chocosphere.com. For more chocolate info, visit www.chocolateinfo.com OR www.exploratorium.edu/chocolate.>

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