Mineral magic: is it skin care or makeup? You get both when you use mineral makeup. Its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties are great for sensitive skin and sun protection

Better Nutrition, May, 2007 by Sherrie Strausfogel

Mineral makeup is not just a cover-up--it can be good for your skin. Naturally high-pigment minerals provide sheer to opaque coverage that helps correct and protect your skin. Mineral makeup, basically, is all natural. Its main ingredients are colored minerals and pigments that exist in nature, such as titanium dioxide, zinc and iron oxides, mica and ultramarine pigments.

"The benefits of using mineral makeup are many," says Kathryn Frew, MD, staff dermatologist at Juva Skin & Laser Center in New York, a diplomat of the American Board of Dermatology and a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. "Mineral makeup is noncomedogenic and oil free so it will not clog pores. It has minimum allergy risk because it does not contain sensitizers like perfume, chemical dyes or preservatives.

"Mineral makeup is often recommended by dermatologists to women with sensitive skin and to cover up acne, rosacea and scars and after laser treatments because of its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties," says Frew.

Because mineral makeup is composed of inorganic minerals, it cannot support bacteria and needs no preservatives. It is made up of microscopic flat crystals that overlap one another on the skin to create a filtering layer that allows the skin to breathe, while it protects it from environmental pollutants. An added benefit is the minerals also provide broad-spectrum sun protection, although additional sunscreen is necessary for prolonged sun exposure.

"Mineral makeup can act as a makeup and skin care all in one," says Lisa Coppa, MD, a dermatologist and founder and medical director of Laser & Skin Institute, PC, in Chatham, NJ. "In addition to the minerals and inorganic pigments, mineral makeup cosmetics can also include natural preservatives, antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, nutrients and sunscreens. Good examples are white and red teas, which help to protect against UV rays, as well as enhance cellular immunity and soothe the skin.

As with any skin-care product, consumers should read the ingredients list closely to make sure there aren't any ingredients that they have had allergic or adverse reactions to. "I generally encourage my patients to purchase products that are free of talcs, oils, waxes and fragrances," says Coppa.

Due to its increasing popularity, mineral makeup is being used as the base for liquid foundations, loose and pressed powders, concealers, blushes, eye shadows and lipsticks. It is long lasting and rarely requires a touch-up during the day. The powders feel silky and are water resistant, allowing for all-day coverage, and they do not fade, crease or smear, even during exercise.

INGREDIENTS IN MINERAL MAKEUP:

* Titanium dioxide is a natural sunscreen and anti-inflammatory agent.

* Iron oxides are natural minerals that add color to makeup.

* Zinc oxide is a natural sunscreen that provides broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection.

* Mica is a mineral that sparkles and comes in a variety of hues from pale green, brown or black to colorless. It reflects light from the face, creating the illusion of smoother, softer, more radiant skin.

* Serecite is a fluffy translucent mineral that provides a silky texture.

* Ultramarine pigments are derived from limestone containing the blue mineral lazurite.

ADDITIVES TO AVOID IN MASS-MARKET MAKEUP:

* Talc (magnesium silicate), a common filler, can cause respiratory problems. It dries skin and accentuates wrinkles.

* FD&C dyes can cause acne.

* Boron and bismuth oxychloride are skin irritants and can cause itching, rashes and cystic acne breakouts.

* Parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butyl- and ethylparabens) are used to extend the shelf life of products. They can cause allergic reactions and skin rashes.

* Imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea, the most commonly used preservatives after parabens, are a primary cause of contact dermatitis.