Dressing up trousers - Men's - latest merchandising trends at men's clothing stores

DSN Retailing Today, May 20, 2002

If "The Graduate" was an account of the trousers business rather than a classic '60s story of the end of youthful innocence, Benjamin Braddock would still be offered the same word of advice: plastics--or at least polymers.

Cotton may still be king, but polyester is finally returning to mass at grand scale for fall and spring 2003, in the form of microfiber. In addition, a slew of synthetic treatments will keep trousers looking sharp.

Perhaps these new fabrics and finishes will pull up the slacking bottoms business. Industrywide, the category was down about 10 percent in 2001 from 2000, according to The NPD Group figures.

"We've got a decent program with a microfiber pant and are actively growing our dressier options," says Matt Starkey, Shopko's divisional vice president of men's, who has added styles from Timber Creek's new Signature Collection to his mix.

Other mass retailers also are stepping into this trend. "Microfiber pants are gaining momentum," says Sandy Sansavara, Ames' senior vice president and general merchandise manager.

The Signature Collection is a departure from the casual stance Timber Creek has taken in the past. "We foresee 20 percent overall growth next fall, driven by this new offering, says Hector Torres, merchandiser for VF's Timber Creek brand.

In addition to solids, the line features mini-chevrons, along with other patterns, such as glen plaids, minichecks and pinstripes, which are expected to stimulate sales across the market. Fabric construction isn't limited to 100 percent polyester; blends and faille also are making in-roads on mass selling floors.

"These dressier looks are key to adding consumer interest," Torres says. Currently, the Signature Collection accounts for between 10 percent and 15 percent of Timber Creek sell-ins.

"Even at the level of Wal-Mart, stock to sales are doing extremely well in microfiber," says Bill Compton, ceo of Tropical Sportswear International, which markets Farah label merchandise to customers at the store.

Still, mass retailers are putting the new microfiber pants on the table one leg at a time, layered on top of cotton basics. By 2003, dressy looks may be given greater play at mass if the pattern follows that of midtier, department and specialty stores, where, "microfiber continues to be a key item," says Doug Ewert, executive vice president of merchandising for The Men's Wearhouse.

"We feel our shoppers cross over channels--also visiting Kohl's, Penney's and Sears--and the microfiber will already have equity and awareness at the discount level because of that," adds Torres.

Come spring, the popularity of microfiber is diminished since the fabric doesn't breathe as well as cotton. To combat overheating, new fabric constructions are in the works.

At a suggested retail price of $17.99, Compton would like to test CoolMax in brands, such as Puritan, that are produced by Tropical for Wal-Mart. Whether consumers respond to promised wicking abilities of the fabric or stick with cotton remains to be seen.

At mid-tier, Levi's Dockers is going the wicking route with its Versatile Pant. It also features hot weather moisture management--in this case dubbed Nano Dry technology.

Perry Ellis International also is striving to counter the effects of poly by incorporating wicking properties into its brands.

A simpler solution is switching fabrication altogether. At the higher end, including The Men's Wearhouse, cooler silk will be hot next spring, addressing the demand for drapey looks.

Another traditionally high-end summer-weight look, linen, will hit mass in spring 2003. After success in its women's Riders assortment, Timber Creek is bringing in 60 percent linen/40 percent cotton blends to address high-end tastes on a low budget.

Customers still want the hand and breathability of cotton, but the neat appearance that will carry items through the workday.

This involves an array of treatments that give cotton a 21st century kick. This major trend allows for a dry hand, while keeping pants waterproof and stain-resistant. Customers can have their cake and eat it too--nay, drop it in their laps--and remain presentable.

Vendors are very gung-ho about these added-value propositions, which started in workwear, and the enthusiasm is catching on. "There's a lot of talk about stain-resistant, Teflon-treated natural fabrics--I think it's going to be the wrinkle-free of four or five years ago, adds Starkey, who is incorporating it in upcoming seasons.

Though wrinkle-free remains vital, meshing perfectly with the return to neatness, new stain-resistant treatments are being seen as a watershed moment in pants manufacturing.

"Wrinkle-resistance and performance features are what's important, not necessarily totally wrinkle-free," says Anthony Campbell, design director at Perry Ellis.

It's interesting that this trend is hitting mass and the mid-tier at the same time, especially when innovation typically trickles down.

"Fusing style with modem technology, we have created a product that is sure to add excitement to the men's casual apparel category," notes Maureen Griffin, director of consumer marketing for Dockers, which has a new line of stain-resistant pants called Go Khaki.