Men's wear revolution? - clothing market - Brief Article

DSN Retailing Today, June 4, 2001

Remember Yves Saint Laurent? Pierre Cardin? These two designers were in large part responsible for popularizing what was once known in the men's wear industry as the peacock revolution. Men's suits changed shapes, shoulders grew.

Remember Levi Strauss? I'm sure you recall that was the San Francisco-based producer of dungarees that led the denim revolution.

Do you recall the "youth" revolution? Turn on, tune in, drop out? Bell-bottoms and flower power were translated into the clothing of the era.

Remember men's clothing in the '50s and early '60s? No? Well then, you'll have to take my word for it. Back in the day, canned Ivy League looks like chinos, button-down shirts and perhaps an alligator knit were what passed for men's fashion. Throw in the "Man in the Grey Flannel Suit," and you have the complete cultural ensemble.

While today's men's apparel market is certainly more varied than it was in the Eisenhower epoch, it could definitely use a compelling trend to jump-start sales. There have been some rumblings about a resurgence of tailored clothing. Unfortunately, I think this news was planted by PR companies representing suit makers--but dressy men's wear will probably remain at its anemic levels for the foreseeable future.

Casual twill trousers are pretty flat, although some movement is expected from lines infused with corduroy and stretch (please see story page 14).

But where's the next big thing? Sure, in the fairly recent past, we've had hip-hop looks, licensed sports apparel and polyester fleece driving men to update their wardrobes, but these styles have been limited in scope. Hip hop's mostly for young men and kids, the baseball strike and Michael Jordan's retirement caused licensed sports apparel to fumble and poly fleece? It's an item, not a revolution.

Cargo pants have been pretty strong for a number of seasons, but extra pockets do not a movement make. I know, let's bring back the leisure suit; it doesn't have to be made of double-knit spongy polyester and would be the perfect bridge for work/casual dress codes.

What, you don't think so? Well, remember the Nehru jacket?

When the next men's wear revolution comes, I hope we can make the most of it.

Jeffrey Arlen

Editor/Associate Publisher