Mass fashion forecast: what spring will bring

DSN Retailing Today, Jan 10, 2005

Now that holiday attire has been relegated to the clearance racks, rolling out best-selling spring/summer 2005 assortments is a pressing issue. Based on last year's hits, the MAGIC show in August, September Fashion Week and feedback from the field, the hottest warm weather trends have started to emerge.

Men's: The key look in fashion-driven young men's apparel is knit tops matched with denim and non-denim bottoms. While wovens are still important, especially '50s-style colorblocked polyblend overshirts, vintage Ts are taking share. Based on buyer reaction, vendors are bullish on retro screens, including Vargas-style pin-ups. In part due to the continued American presence in the Middle East, the military look is still en vogue as well. Color is important in both young men's and casualwear, especially pink. At Ocean Pacific, "buyers have had an amazing reaction to our classic Op polos in pastel 'Miami Vice' colors," said Nat Norfleet, design director.

Women's" For the 35-plus customer, Palm Beach brights reigned, in patterns similar to those that made Pucci and Lily Pulitzer famous. In fact, Lily Pulitzer debuted a booth at MAGIC last August, with apparel featuring traditional summery motifs, including palm trees and starfish. Beachy pastels are pervading assortments in young missy contemporary and juniors apparel as well, with floral prints replacing last year's stripes. In terms of silhouette, waist heights are on the rise in skirts, shorts and pants. Capris continue to be key, driving bottoms sales across all age and size ranges. Generally, wovens are making a comeback in the misses market, with slightly boxier cuts coming back into fashion in misses and plus sizes.

Children's: Easter has become an increasingly important holiday for retailers, as the dominantly Catholic Hispanic population continues to grow. Dresses and separates providing formal looks for girls and boys are key parts of assortments. Wal-Mart's George line successfully launched this type of apparel last spring, retailing items such as boys' dress shirts sold with coordinating ties. While for the past few seasons childrens' wear that closely mirrored adult fashions ruled the floors, with adult brands including Juicy Couture and Prada taken into infant sizes, "Children's fashion is more about kids being kids again," said Stacy Bobroff, marketing director for French Toast and Lollytogs.

Intimates: Intimate apparel will shed this winter's baroque lace, and clean silhouettes are expected to gain share. Cotton, with the requisite support and stretch, is a must for a salable assortment, especially in panties. "Lighter fabrications, especially cotton and cotton blends are in high demand in the warmer months," said Heather Craig, marketing manager for Hades intimates. Due to consumer reaction, buyers and vendors predict that the microfiber-dominated market will shift toward natural fabrications again. In terms of color, baby pastels are popular for spring in classic powder puff pink and blue.

Accessories: While fashion jewelry continues to shine, the chandelier earring trend has come to an end, even at the mass level. Still, long metal earrings, especially '70s-style fishtails, are expected to perform well. Hoops have also taken share, especially larger models. Necklaces, especially pendants, are trending well for a number of vendors, while metals--both goldtone and silvertone--are still coming back. In the handbag market, variety continues to reign, with novelty designs a key category for retailers including Target, which devotes a special section to these items on its Web site. Whether art-printed or applique totes, metallic hobos, classic straw or leather, one handbag is not expected to be enough for customers next spring.