Fashion's Future - Cover Story - trends in the apparel industry

DSN Retailing Today, Dec 10, 2001 by Emily Scardino

A major stain-resistant initiative rolling out in men's wear is the Teflon-coated JEEP jean manufactured by Old Toledo Brands. Water and grease slide off, but the denim is indiscernible from that in ordinary jeans.

"Teflon gives jeans an added dimension of value" says Bill Ghitis, president of global apparel for DuPont Apparel and Textile Sciences. "We're focusing existing fabric technologies on new applications in comfort, easy care, durability and style."

Improved technology in stretch fabrications is helping them saturate every apparel category. Despite early retail struggles with the fabrication in men's shirtings, about 50 percent of men say they want Lycra in dress shirts and casual pants, exceeding market penetration, according to a Strategic Insights study provided by DuPont.

In activewear, stretch continues to grow in importance. "Stretch is currently 70 percent to 80 percent of our overall apparel assortment, and rising," says Cheryl Webster, vice president of private-label development and sourcing for Gart Sports.

"Stretch cotton Lycra for men will remain a slam dunk in underwear for the big box," adds Harven of Sara Lee Underwear.

Yet even as technical advances continue, there's a predicted return toward simpler styles in terms of design, satisfying Luddite and Jetsons perspectives.

"I think we will start trending away from high fashion, and basics will get solid again," says Jim Fennema, senior vice president at Duckwell-ALCO.

Even in trendy juniors, assortments might become more low-key.

"Most teens want to dress in a way that is easy, comfortable and fashionable, without drawing too much attention," says Sharon Pommer, vice president and general merchandise manager at juniors catalog and e-tailer Alloy.

Casual basics may come on strong as a reaction to the continued home-centered activities many feel will increase over the next several years.

"We will do more loungewear," adds Zellers' Emond. "We've seen this category becoming more important in the past five years and definitely see the need to exploit it in fabrications like micropolar--really too warm for sleeping in--and indoor/outdoor slipper/shoes."

Many see multipurpose casual clothing becoming more dominant.

"It's important to give [casual clothing] versatility, so she can mix and match items that can cross over from office to after-hours--like a French terry cardigan," says Karen Fitzgerald, trend director at Sara Lee Casualwear.

Even as casualwear remains strong, dressy looks may also grab consumer attention. With the decline of dot-coins as an overriding cultural influence, shabby chic will be on the wane.

"Basically, what we see in the next few years is a resurgence in dressy dressing," says Doug Ewert, executive vice president of merchandising for The Men's Wearhouse. "We believe that tough economic times have more customers interviewing for jobs and those with jobs wanting to keep them."

Still, consumers won't eschew comfortable fabrications for looks.

"We're going to see a return to tailored careerwear; people will be looking for comfort and trend away from cutting-edge fashion," adds David Wolfe, trend forecaster for The Doneger Group.