Jeans comfy in chic shops as well as Wal-Mart

DSN Retailing Today, Jan 24, 2005 by Emily Scardino

Wrangler at Barneys, Levi's at Pamida--buying a pair of blue jeans has never been as egalitarian, and the cross-channel migration continues.

While denim is traditionally a core apparel offering across the retail industry, distribution has been more innovative and unpredictable than in years past. This is based on vendor efforts to gain market share as the number of storefronts shrink due to retail consolidation and the remaining retailers focus on private label.

Denim traditionally is one of the last bastions of national brand names, and vendors are making sure to retain the marketing benefits inherent to their lines by keeping their brand names as strong as possible--in many cases, by coming out with pricey lines and limiting distribution.

Lately, it seems that the more blue-blooded the offering, the better. Now, mass-market brand names can be found on high-ticket "aspirational" items at stone of today's most luxe retailers, while some of the chicest denim treatments and cuts on the market can be found at the local Target or Wal-Mart.

According to a Barneys New York representative, the Wrangler brand was new to its floors as of back-to-school 2004. Also seen at other high-end department stores including Bloomingdales, the Westernwear label has made a push in young contemporary misses sportswear, with key items including vintage-cut dungarees and trendy coordinating blazers, all about $100 per item. Parent company VF Jeanswear conversely is adding high-end fashion details to its discount lines, including Wrangler Hero and Riders.

"We're seeing the best reaction to our most fashion-forward, premium washes," said Joyce Markwell, vp and gm for Wrangler Hero of the brand's spring men's line, which features dark, blackened, striated washes that would be akin to Diesel. Many of the trendiest washes are part of the company's Wrangler Jeans Co. offering, which is aimed at a young men's customer and features NASCAR driver Dale Earnhardt Jr. as its spokesman.

Meanwhile, some of the edgy denim treatments coming down European runways that are hot in the trendsetting Japanese textiles market are quickly trickling down to $17 jeans in the discount market. While some of these hand-finished jeans retail upward of $150 at retailers such as Abercrombie & Fitch's Ruehl specialty store, less expensive fabrications that capture the look and texture of the premium denim are catching on.

While Levi's has long maintained a highbrow image, the company has lately emphasized its high-end line, even as it has continued to expand its newer mass-market brand, Levi Strauss Signature.

While mass names have their own appeal, designer washes and finishes are conversely finding a home at mass. Target's popular Mossimo jeans are now available, tailored to order, on the Internet for $34.99. Streaky, slubbed denim in vintage tints are popular under Mossimo, just as they are in the designer market.

It will take a strong denim trend to drive growth in this saturated market. Still, with $200 jeans for Saturday night and $17 models for Sunday brunch, there may be enough business to go around.