School uniforms get flair for fashion - Brief Article - Statistical Data Included

DSN Retailing Today, April 2, 2001

In what some might feel is a contradiction of intent, school uniforms are feeling the effects of fashion. For Back-to-School, expect new silhouettes to incorporate on-trend features into formerly traditional designs.

Retailers plan to benefit from the increased appeal of these products, and are even offering a wider range of sizes to maximize this category.

The data shows that school uniforms are continuing to gather steam. In fact, uniform sales rose 22 percent over the past two years, reaching $1.1 billion in 2000, according to the Port Washington, N.Y.-based research firm The NPD Group.

Interestingly, factors other than schools' heightened tendency to require uniformity are fueling growth, with a stronger-than-ever injection of fashion topping the list. David J. Hidary, a principal of M. Hidary & Co., notes that while school uniform mandates were initially put into place to minimize fashion-initiated competition and foster "clothes equality" among students, many administrators, particularly in the public sector, have become less concerned about such problems. "Today, they care more about color uniformity and neatness than about silhouettes and the location or existence of elements like pockets or zippers," Hidary says. This is enabling retailers to capitalize on and profit from consumer demand for stylish pieces for girls and boys.

Larry Plitnick, vice president of sales at French Toast, corroborates Hidary's comments, adding that the popularity of school uniform components with a "trendier" bent is also bolstering sales by encouraging multiple purchases. "Parents generally don't buy more than two 'plain' jumpers, blouses, skirts or pairs of pants," he states. "However, retailers say customers will take three or even four of the same category of garment if each has a different fashion embellishment; for instance, one scooter skirt, one zipper skort, one flare-cut skort and one skirt with a cargo pocket."

As part of what Plitnick calls a "very proactive" approach to uniforms, Troy, Mich.-based Kmart has altered its assortment significantly. While basic styles are still available, an equal number of fashion garments--three-quarter sleeve stretch blouses, crewneck tops with satin trim, skorts with teardrop zippers and zip pouches to zip-off pants and cargo shorts--pepper the mix. The change is especially evident in girls' sizes seven to 20.

To help differentiate itself from competitors and ensure the right current items are available in-store at the right time, Kmart has begun testing fashion-infused uniform components yearround and ordering them immediately if consumer feedback warrants. The store no longer waits until the next Back-to-School season to tout popular pieces. Instead, merchants are frequently reordering as they do in other apparel classifications.

Similar changes to the uniform merchandise mix are being made at Hoffman Estates, Ill.-based Sears and Dallas-based JCPenney. JCPenney's New Moves proprietary brand of school skirts for girls now includes a short black cotton/polyester model with wide pleats and a scooter skort.

Not surprisingly, both M. Hidary and French Toast have additional fashion styles on tap for Back-to-School 2001. The former will roll out a unisex-quilted vest and boys' cargo pants with zip-off legs. Among girls' cotton blouse options will be one model with elbow-length sleeves and another with long sleeves that may be cuffed using a button fastener along the forearm. French Toast's girls' collection will offer, among other items, a polyester capri pant with a drop waist and two front pockets; a knit skort with a zipper pouch; a polyester skort with a mock plaque belt; a cotton/spandex/poplin blouse with three-quarter sleeves; and a woven blouse with ruffle sleeves.

Even Dickies Kidswear, which will continue to cater to the basic end of the business, is "stepping very gently" into fashion, according to David Hein, general manager for this Dickies division. A girls' stretch blouse in 97 percent cotton/3 percent spandex will be introduced in time for the fall selling season.

But while industry players are apparently benefiting from the migration of the fashion trend from the "regular" garment side to the uniform end, they are also taking other tacks aimed at generating additional volume within the category. Case in point: With more middle schools and high schools requiring that students wear some type of uniform, Kmart, Sears and JCPenney have broadened their programs to accommodate pre-teens and teens. All three retailers previously offered girls' uniforms in sizes 14 and under; new assortments include juniors sizes and plus sizes. The range of available boys' sizes now extends beyond size 14 or 16 to size 20; trouser sizes range to 38 and huskies.

Additionally, Kmart and Sears are delving into coordinating outerwear. "For the most part, schools aren't requiring it, but parents are requesting it so as to better coordinate with whatever the school uniform happens to be," a Sears spokeswoman says.