Julie Sahni's Introduction To Indian Cooking - Review

Whole Earth, Spring, 1999

JULIE SAHNI'S INTRODUCTION TO INDIAN COOKING

Julie Sahni. 1998; 230 pp. $16.95. Ten Speed Press.

Julie Sahni, acclaimed cook, teacher, and author (Classic Indian Cooking), wrote this book specifically for the novice, "to dispel the notion that Indian cooking is exotic, complex, and time-consuming." Nevertheless, the dishes will reward you with complex, layered flavors accompanied by haunting and memorable aromas. Even while assembling the ingredients and seasonings I was struck by the rich colors and textures. She begins with a short survey of the amalgamation of regional cusines--each the distinctive product of geography, history, cultural heritage, and religious beliefs-that constitute "Indian" cooking. She provides a series of menus, the necessary staples for the Indian pantry, a glossary, mail-order sources, and a measurement equivalency chart. Clearly, she is determined not only that you will have everything you need to prepare Indian food, but that you will enjoy it. You will.

Begin with Matha, a beverage made with yogurt, mint, and cumin. For me, it was like drinking the word "exotic." Bhone Badaam (hot and spicy almonds) and Matha could keep you quite happy. However, try getting totally swept away and make a meal of the following: Mirch Raita, a smoky roasted-pepper and mint yogurt salad which is served as a condiment; Dal, a flavorful dish of lentils; Hari Poori, a fried bread made with peas, which is a wonderful green color; Bhona Gosht, grilled lamb marinated in herbs and spices served garnished with grapes; and Jeer Aloo, potatoes with cumin. Kheer, Indian rice pudding with cardamon, is a voluptuous dessert with splendid textures and colors. If you've gotten this far, follow Julie's instructions and eat in the traditional manner with your fingers.

"It may come as a surprise that only a handful of spices are native to India, black pepper, cardamom, tumeric, and kari leaf among them. Most of the spices in curry powder, the famous spice blend from India, are of Mediterranean origin. Cumin, coriander, fennel, mustard, and fenugreek are all native to the Mediterranean Basin. And chiles, too, are an import, introduced by the Portuguese in the early sixteenth century from the New World.

"Kachoomar

The relish Kachoomar is used primarily to add moisture to a meal. Not surprisingly it goes well with stuffed breads, tandoori meats, roasts, and grilled chicken, lamb, and beef. Unlike Mexican salsa, which can range in heat from mild to dynamite-hot, Indian salsa is mild and fragrant. Particularly nice additions to the basic mix of tomatoes, chiles, cucumbers, and onions are daikon radish and Kirby cucumbers.

Serves 4

1 cup finely diced tomato, drained
1 tablespoon chopped green chiles
1 cup finely diced cucumbers, preferably Kirby
1 cup finely diced radish, preferably daikon
1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves and
tender stems

Put all the ingredients in a bowl, toss well to mix, and serve. (The salsa can be prepared ahead and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.)