Travel File - Palm Springs

Golf Digest, Feb, 2000 by John Strege

The developers' insatiable appetite continues to swallow huge swaths of the Coachella Valley's desert scrub, transforming it into green fairways that now extend beyond the tony neighborhoods of Indian Wells and La Quinta and into working-class Indio. This raises a befuddling question: If, as you are certain to hear ad nauseam on these desert golf courses, all putts break toward Indio, which way do they break when you're standing in Indio?

This inland desert, equidistant from Los Angeles and San Diego (a two- hour drive from either), has become synonymous with golf. The four public-access courses that opened at the end of 1999 bring the number of courses in the Coachella Valley to more than 100. Nearly half of them are accessible to the public. More are on the drawing board.

On the environmental front, the water that has transformed the Coachella Valley into an oasis is neither bought nor siphoned from elsewhere; it comes from a massive aquifer. Hence the springs in Palm Springs.

Torture chambers

PGA West Resort, La Quinta. .... TPC Stadium Cse.; ...11/42 Jack Nicklaus Tournament Cse.; Greg Norman Resort Cse. $60-$260 (760-564- 7170).

For better or for worse, PGA West remains the centerpiece of golf in the Coachella Valley, abusing golfers of every ilk. The Stadium Course is among the most difficult in the country, with a Course Rating of 75.9 and a Slope of 150. Still, it remains an attraction-for either the curious or the mas-ochistic. The signature hole is the par-3 17th, with its island green. The Nicklaus course will inflict pain as well, though not to the same degree as the Stadium.

The new Norman course, which opened on Jan. 1, differs dramatically from its PGA West brethren: Rather than wall-to-wall grass, natural desert terrain frames each hole. Moreover, it is the first resort course in the desert to permit walking (though a caddie and 24 hours' notice are required). The PGA West pantheon also includes private courses designed by Nicklaus, Palmer and Weiskopf.

Play where the pros play

Landmark G.C., Indio. Skins North Cse.; Skins South Cse. $135-$160 (760-775-2000).

The annual Skins Game will be played at this new complex at least through 2003. It currently is the only place in this desert where the public is welcome to play a course on which PGA Tour players compete. Native desert vegetation and sand dunes frame holes carved from the foothills of the Indio Hills. Be forewarned, another island green has surfaced: the 183-yard 15th on Skins North, a hole dubbed "Got Balls?"

Perennial favorites

La Quinta Resort & Club, La Quinta. .... Mountain Cse.; ...11/42 Dunes Cse. $40-$235 (760-564-7686).

A pair of Pete Dye courses located adjacent to the sumptuous La Quinta Hotel. The back nine of the Mountain Course is spectacular.

The Westin Mission Hills Resort, Rancho Mirage. .... Mission Hills North Cse.; ...11/42 Pete Dye G. Cse. $55-$175. (760-770-2908 and 760- 328-3198, respectively).

The Dye course is somewhat less challenging than his other desert layouts. Mission Hills North is a thoroughly enjoyable Gary Player design.

Golf from the desert king

Golf Resort at Indian Wells, Indian Wells. ...11/42 East Cse.; ...11/42 West Cse. $30-$140 (760-346-4653).

Marriott's Desert Springs Resort, Palm Desert. ...11/42 Palms Cse.; ...11/42 Valley Cse. $135-$150 (760-341-2211)...11/42 Marriott's Rancho Las Palmas Resort, Rancho Mirage. $70-$135 (760-862-4551).

All the above courses were designed by the busiest man in the desert, Ted Robinson.

Golf in a wind tunnel.... Desert Dunes G.C., Desert Hot Springs. $100- $115 (760-251-5367).

Only a frequent vicious wind down the mountain pass from Los Angeles mars this otherwise first-rate Robert Trent Jones Jr. course. Play it in the morning to increase the chances of still conditions.

For the retiring sort

Heritage Palms G.C., Indio. $30-$120 (760-772-7334).

An eminently playable Arthur Hills design, located in what the developer calls "an active adult lifestyle community." A retirement community is being constructed around the golf course, which eventually is expected to become a private, residents-only layout.

A links in the desert?...11/42 Desert Falls C.C., Palm Desert. $40-$180 (760-340-5646).

It considers itself a links golf course, though the nearest ocean is several hours away.

Playing amid nature

Desert Willow G. Resort, Palm Desert. Firecliff Cse.; Mountain View Cse. $50-$160 (760-346-7060).

Two new pro-environment Mike Hurdzan/Dana Fry courses on which former Rancho Mirage resident John Cook consulted. Native vegetation frames fairways.

Only the golf is average.. Canyon South G. Cse., Palm Springs. $25-$70 (760-327-2019).

The golf course sits up against the mountains.

The surroundings are spectacular.

Muny golf at its best

Tahquitz Creek Resort, Palm Springs. ...11/42 Resort Cse.; ... Legend Cse. $20-$80 (760-328-1005).

A strong muny tandem. The Legend dates to 1959; the Arnold Palmer Management Company recently did a dramatic upgrade.

Weather report

The Palm Springs area features a climate typical of desert locations: mild, clear winters and hot, dry summers with little rain. The region averages only 5.3 inches of rain per year, most occurring between November and March. The average high in February is a gorgeous 74 degrees.