Fashion Photography Shoots for the Stars

Art Business News, Oct, 2001 by Vanessa Silberman

Still, not every fashion photograph is a candidate for a gallery wall. "I'm really only interested in fashion photography that transcends the commercial purpose" explained Gitterman."Not every image does so. If it's merely a document of the advertisement or the promotion of the fashion or designer, it won't work, it won't sell. It has to be a personal expression of the photographer's artistic vision."

Staley agreed. "I sell images truly based on quality and on the beauty of the photograph. If it is a good photograph, it is a good photograph, regardless of the commercial environment it was created under."

Collecting Fashion Photography

"There is such a depth of interest in the world of fashion photography now," said Gitterman."Some people are interested in the fashion, some are interested in the work because they are great photographers and it captivates them. Others are interested in the nostalgic element that documents that specific fashion at that time in the world--what was symbolic of the '20s and '30s, for example."

According to Gitterman, collectors range from people in the industry--everyone from models, photographers and designers--to people who just love fashion. "Or there are just general photographic collectors," he said.

"Surprisingly, a lot of businessmen are collecting, as are art consultants who are advising their clients to buy fashion photography," observed Staley.

According to Gitterman, recent photographs by Lillian Bassman are as popular as images she took decades ago."In some ways they are more sought after than work by contemporary fashion photographers" said Gitterman. "She's an established name, solid within the history of photography and the market. So when she produces something new, it already has the stamp of approval."

According to Staley, the collectors she deals with are interested mainly in photographs from the 1930s to the '60s--Huene, Horst, Irving Penn, Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Bert Stern.

"The classic black and whites sell very well," she said, "but there are also a lot of collectors for David LaChapelle, who works in color."

The fashion photographers of yesterday did not point and shoot thinking their images would soon be hanging on a gallery wall. Today's photographers do, as collectors' interest in the work of LaChapelle, Meisel, David Seidner, Mario Testino and Peter Lindberg increases. "Contemporary fashion photographers are already collected, and I think their market will continue as long as they do innovative work" remarked Gitterman.

Many people in the art world may turn their noses up at anything commercial, but ironically, the success of contemporary art today is increasingly determined by its marketability. Gitterman believes there shouldn't be a problem. "I don't think fashion photographers think everything they touch or make is fine art, but I doubt that any of them think what they are doing is a mere craft. I think they all believe there is an artistic element to it," he said.

Pricing Fashion Photography

Fashion photographs appeal to both young and seasoned buyers, according to gallery owners, and cost isn't a prohibitive factor. With prices beginning at just over $1,000 for a signed, quality photograph, fashion photography is an ideal candidate for a young collector starting a collection."That is the beauty of photography," said Gitterman.