Paris: inspiration on every corner: African American writers have long found a home away from home in the City of Lights

Black Issues Book Review, July-August, 2005 by Monique Y. Wells

For writers of all nationalities, creeds and colors, Paris represents an irresistible place to search for one's muse. African American authors such as James Baldwin, Richard Wright and Barbara Chase-Riboud have found inspiration there, and countless others have set up residence or made the pilgrimage in the hope of doing so. Historically speaking, the districts for African American writers are Saint-Germain-des-Pres and Odeon. Set in the 6th arrondissement on the Left Bank of the Seine, these quarters were the center of black, literary care life after World War II. Richard Wright's favorite cafe was the Monaco (now the Comptoir du Relais) at No. 5, carrefour de l'Odeon. [See list, In Their Footsteps, page 35.]

It was just down the street from No. 12, rue Monsieur le Prince, the building where he and his family resided for most of his time in Paris. A plaque honoring him as a "Black-American man of letters" is affixed to this building, which is still an apartment house.

Most of the African American writers of Wright's time gathered at the Tournon, a small cafe at No. 18, rue de Tournon. The writer William Gardner Smith reportedly discovered the care when he moved to an apartment above it in 1955. According to former journalist Richard Gibson, one of the Tournon "gang," the place has scarcely changed since he was a patron during the 1950s and '60s. Paris' most prestigious literary cafes are Les Deux Magots and Cafe Flore. Wright favored Les Deux Magots--he met James Baldwin there when Baldwin first arrived in Paris in 1948. In contrast, Baldwin favored the Flore. He spent many days in its upper room, socializing and struggling to write. Directly across the street from the Flore, the Brasserie Lipp is a favorite of contemporary sculptor, author and poet Barbara Chase-Riboud. [See BIBR, March-April 2005, CONTEMPORARY LEGEND.]

Harlem in Montparnasse

The Montparnasse district is most famous for the multinational artistic community that flourished there in the early 20th century. Many writers--African American among them--have frequented the area, as well.

Harlem Renaissance writers would gather for drinks at the Falstaff Bar at 42, rue du Montparnasse. Claude McKay's and Countee Cullen's works were published by the Black Manikin, a small Anglophone publishing house that was once located at 4, rue Delambre. The Poissonerie du Dome, a high-quality fish market, is now located at this address.

Chase-Riboud's French publisher Albin Michel has offices at 204, boulevard Raspail.

Le Dome is one of four cafes at the carrefour Vavin on boulevard du Montparnasse. It, along with Le Select, La Rotonde and La Coupole were the hub of social activity for this Bohemian quarter during its heyday.

Baldwin used Le Select as a setting in his novel Giovanni's Room; Chester Himes wrote A Jealous Man Can't Win there. La Coupole is the largest and most impressive of the cafes, and was one of Josephine Baker's favorite places. Countee Cullen, Langston Hughes and Chester Himes are among the black American writers who are known to have frequented this historically classified monument.

Backdrop for Mystery

In the 18th arrondissement, on the opposite side of town, Montmartre has captured the heart of contemporary author lake Lamar. In his latest thriller, Rendezvous Eighteenth (St. Martin's Minotaur, November 2003), he skillfully weaves the tale of protagonist Ricky Jenks using this district as a backdrop. Visitors wanting to walk in the footsteps of Ricky Jenks and his creator will appreciate a stroll along Avenue Junot (the setting for one of the murders committed in the novel) to admire the mansions on this quiet street. They are also sure to enjoy the charm of place des Abbesses, where Jenks buys his morning croissants, and the eclectic creperie Le Tire Bouchon at No. 9, rue Norvins, which was the inspiration for Jenks's workplace Le Bon Montmartrois.

Among the sites that figure in the action of Rendezvous Eighteenth, the square Roland Dorgeles on the corner of rue des Saules and rue Saint-Vincent may be the most picturesque. The Montmartre vineyard, the colorful cabaret Au Lapin Agile and Saint-Vincent Cemetery lie at the other three points of this intersection that approaches the summit of the hill. This corner is where the climax of the novel takes place.

For those who would like to work on their writing while in the city, the WICE Paris Writers Workshop is offered for one week every summer, featuring 15 hours of class time and one individual conference with a Writer in Residence Additional activities include lectures, readings and literary walking tours. WICE Paris Writers Workshop, July 3-8, 2005; http://www.wice-paris.org/courses/creative/pww.html.> Whether you are an aspiring or accomplished author, poet, journalist or playwright, inspiration awaits you in Paris!

Monique Y. Wells is cofounder of Discover Paris!--Personalized Itineraries for Independent Travelers (www.discoverparis.net) and the author of Food for the Soul: A Texas Expatriate Nurtures Her Culinary Roots in Paris (Elton-Wolf Publishing, April 2004; www.parisfoodforthesoul.com). She is the creator of the walks in Paris Reflections: Walks Through African American Paris (McDonald & Woodward Publishing Company, Spring 2004.