BISQUE

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2001

Since Everest, Joho has continued to expand his empire with the addition of Brasserie Jo, modeled after the brasseries of the late 1800s when brewers were forced into the city limits of Paris during the Franco-Prussian war. The brasseries, which popped up are comfortable places for locals to enjoy a good glass of brew lengthy conversations, and hearty fare, reminiscent of Brasserie Jo. The menu features all three pleasures including its own brew, Hop LA. The Alsatian style beer, featuring hops, which come from Alsace, suits the cuisines of the brasserie as do the custom picked selection of French beers and wines. The menu resembles very little of the nouveau French dishes at Everest, but instead focuses on a well stocked raw bar, steamed mussels, onion tarts, and steak frites. Though he prefers no one restaurant to the other and can he found at all three, most of his time is devoted to his baby, Everest. The restaurant exemplifies the chef's posh sense of style and extraordinary taste.

Chilled Maine Shrimp Gelee and Viognier Bisque

Bruce Sherman

ingredients

For the shrimp:

4 pounds jumbo Mainc shrimp, heads on

2 cups whole milk

For the basil oil:

1 cup basil leaves

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

For the lobster oil:

8 ounces vegetable oil

1 pound lobster shells and hulls, chopped fine

1 cup water

For the Viognier bisque:

1 1/2 cups Viognier wine

1 quart water

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

3 carrots, chopped fine

4 ounces spring onions, white part only, chopped fine

1 small bulb fennel, cored and chopped fine

2 stalks celery, chopped fine

4 pods green cardamom

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

Salt and pepper to taste

1 bouquet garni (white peppercorns, parsley stems, tarragon stems, chervil stems, basil stems, chives, dill)

5 egg yolks, beaten

1 cup heavy cream, beaten to soft peaks

For the gelee:

2 cups reserved bisque

3 egg whites, beaten

1 carrot, peeled and diced plus 2 tablespoons small diced carrots, blanched

1 onion, peeled and diced

1 stalk celery, diced

2 tablespoons small diced fennel, blanched

2 tablespoons small diced red bell pepper, blanched

1/4 bunch chives, minced

1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and minced

Reserved shrimp

1 gelatin leaf; softener in 1 cup cold water

directions

For the dish:

Reserved whole shrimp

Croutons

For the shrimp, in a medium, shallow bowl, cover the shrimp with milk and set aside in the refrigerator overnight. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the milk. Rinse anti set aside.

For the basil oil, bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the basil leaves and boil for one minute. Remove from the heat, strain, shock, and dry. Place the basil leaves on a cutting board and finely chop. Transfer to a blender and gradually add the oil, blending on low speed or one minute. Adjust to medium speed and blend for five minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside in a cool place overnight. Strain through a cheesecloth-lined, fine mesh sieve and set aside.

For the lobster oil, in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together the lobster shells and oil on low speed until the oil turns bright orange, about 20 minutes. Remove the bowl, transfer the mix to a medium, deep saute pan over medium heat, and sear until the shells turn bright red, about five minutes. Add the water, bring to a simmer, and maintain the heat for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside to cool. Place in the refrigerator until the oil and water have separated and the oil is firm, about two hours. Remove the oil from the top and discard the water. In a medium saucepan, melt the oil over low heat. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside.