The Staff of Life and Substance of Rebirth

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2001

When creating a new dessert menu, Bellanger focuses on the style of Le Bernardin, "The cooking of Eric Ripert is very light and flavorful. We follow the same ideas; we work for the product. I think it's okay to have two or three flavors on the plate, but you always have to focus on your main flavor. The ingredient comes first, then the chef. If the ingredient makes you famous, then so be it." Bellanger recently received a nod from the James Beard Foundation as one of its nominees for Pastry Chef of the Year 2001. Though, true to his own words, he accepts the nomination as the highest of compliments, but replies, "This is like a miracle for me. You know, I came here five years ago; I didn't know anyting--I mean I knew my job, but I had no contacts. And, this year the awards came up. What's the most important I think for me is the fact that the nomination is made by the profession and that feels good. I don't think about it, because if you think, you convince yourself that you're good, and if you convince your self that you're good, you don't work at it anymore. Be happy when you do something well, but don't be proud of yourself-let your wife or your parents be proud of you."

Though raised with an international palate, his fondest memories are those of his grandparents' farm in Rhode Island. After graduating from Cornell University, Bouley departed for France to work in the kitchens of such culinary icons as Fredy Giradet, Paul Bocuse, and Joel Robuchon. In their kitchens he learned that the greatest dishes are the simplest and require pronounced skill and knowledge. Upon his return to New York, he traveled through the American circuit of culinary movers and shakers. His resume includes kitchen posts at La Cote Basque, Le Perigord, Le Cirque, and Montrachet.

In 1987, he opened his own venture, Bouley and quickly received the praise of critics for his simple but elegant creations cooked with little butter or cream. In 1996 the restaurant closed, giving Bouley a year to prepare for his future venture, Bouley Bakery. The humble restaurant, with a hearth of a kitchen, was a reminder of its owner's undeniable skill in the kitchen, even with bread. After three years, Bouley was ready to tackle two cuisines more readily associated with goulash than gourmet in his restaurant Danube. The combination of Austrian and Hungarian dishes materializes like all great cuisine; its elegance rooted in exalting the subtle nuances that nature has provided.

Baked Ribollita, Red Wine-Onion, and Zucchini-Tomato Bread Soups

ingredients

For the red wine-onion bread soup:

1/3 cup olive oil

3 pounds sweet Maui onions, peeled and sliced into wedges [*]

2 red onions peeled and sliced.

4 shallots, peeled and sliced

10 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced

3 cups red wine

4 cups veal stock

4 cups chicken stock

12 slices day-old pugliese bread [**]

1/2 cup Fontina Val d'Aosta cheese, finely grated

1/2 cup antique Gruyere cheese, finely grated [***]

1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, finely grated

Salt and pepper to taste