Crepes

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2001

You say pancake I say palacsinta. You call them hot cakes I call them crepes. The most noted dish of Brittany, France are thc thin griddle cakes called crepes (Kiple and Ornelas 1215). They are a basic dish, a simple dish; made noble by a young apprentice during a tableside preparation creating a crepe flambe. In his book, Food Encyclopedia Craig Claibourne reports, with some reluctance, that the legend of Crepes Suzette follows this poorly scripted path; famed restaurateur Henri Charpentier was once a young assistant waiter at the Cafe de Paris in Monte Carlo. During a tableside preparation of crepes for the Prince of Wales and his beautiful young companion, the addition of orange liqueur caused the dish to ignite, making the dessert infamous. Though this tale is cited as fact in other food anthologies, it was disputed not long after Charpentier's death, by fellow food professional Chef Joseph Donon. In lieu of his accusation, Donon provided as further proof, a quote from M. Raymond Bodet in which the dish is reported to be the creation of restaurant director M. Joseph for actress Suzanne Reichenberg, whose starring role required her to consume crepes every night on stage. Other sources, the Parfait Confiturieur, published in 1667, attributes Crepes Suzette to Jean Redoux, named for the Princess de Carignan (Trager 133). Even still, there must be an entourage of historians, anthropologists, archaeologists, and gossip columnists who would beg to differ the origin of crepes and would waste precious eating time doing just that.

The only thing that really counts with crepes is that the batter rest and that the final product is gold en brown, tender, and void of holes To achieve a flawless crepe requires a flawless griddle. James Beard preferred a Teflon-lined, cast-aluminum omelet pan. Well armed with a long flat spatula and a generous supply of melted butter or oil, sheet upon sheet of feathery crepe could be reproduced. Though a proper crepe pan or crepiere is made of iron, non-stick surfaces make it so much easier. Key points to a proper crepe batter, according to noted food writer and godfather of American cooking James Beard, are that it be the consistency of heavy cream and pour easily. It is equally important that the batter rest for two to three hours before cooking. The resting process enables gluten in the flour to relax and expand as it absorbs the liquid. The resting process helps to produce an airy, paper thin crepe. The liquid may be milk or beer depending on the type of crepe preparation. However, the goal is to make thin, golden brown pancakes, flexible enough to roll or stuff with filling, In central France, sliced, grated, or pureed potatoes are added to the batter for the preparation of bourriol, crique, and matalan dishes in which the hearty pancakes are enriched with bacon and eggs. It wouldn't be French if it didn't have at least 20 different regional recipes. In Brittany, crepes, usually buckwheat are served aux oeufs; a warm yolk pooled in the center or aux echalotes; butter, shallots, and sea salt sprinkled on top. No matter the exact ingredients or presentation, crepes were regarded in France as a sign of loyalty, often given by farmers to their landowners as a sign of respect (Montagne 332).

"How do they taste? They taste like more."

H.L. Mencken

James Beard's Crepes

(16 8-inch crepes)

For the crepe batter:

3 eggs, beaten

1 1/4 cups milk

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons melted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

1 cup melted butter

Note: James Beard's recipe produces a slightly thicker crepe.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and one cup milk to combine. Add three-quarters of the flour and whisk until smooth. Add the butter and whisk to combine. Add the remaining flour and milk as needed to form a smooth batter with the consistency of heavy cream.

Season and set aside in the refrigerator for three hours.

To finish the crepes, in an 8-inch, shallow saute or crepe pan heat one tablespoon melted butter over medium heat, making sure not to brown. Pour enough batter to lightly coat the bottom of the pan. Saute until almost dry, about 30 seconds. Using a long, flat metal spatula, flip the crepe and saute on the other side until dry and golden brown. Transfer to a plate and cover with parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Paul Bocuse's Crepes Dentelles:

(Makes 15 8-inch crepes)

For the crepe batter:

3/4 cup buckwheat flour

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 egg

2 tablespoons melted butter

2 cups water

1/4 cup beer

Salt to taste

For the dish:

1 cup melted butter

Note: Paul Bocuse's recipe produces a paper thin lacy, crepe. The addition of beer leavens the batter slightly.

For the crepe batter, in a large bowl, whisk together the buckwheat flour, two tablespoons all purpose flour, egg, butter, and water. Add the remaining all-purpose flour as needed to form a smooth batter with the consistency of heavy cream. Season and set aside in the refrigerator for three hours. Add the beer and stir to combine.