Waiting for Maroc

Art Culinaire, Summer, 2001

Morocco is a place of contradictions: of light and dark, luxury and despair, obedience and unrest. Where the solemn desert floor greets vibrant tile facades and water is a luxury. To the north, the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea cap the fertile coast. To the south, the Atlas Mountains peak at Mount Toubkal then plummet 14,000 feet, sliding into the Western Sahara. Climate extremes mean life and death. Somewhere, between the spectrum of myth and reality, is Morocco. An observer for only a week, seven days was barely enough time for the awe to subside. Morocco reveals itself in many ways; curvaceous sand dunes, tiny cove in the walled market place painted with fresh blood from a butcher's block, the weathered lines of an old woman's face. From a distance it's easy to romanticize the mystique of Morocco. In truth, it is a puzzle for the sense, tactile and alive--overwhelming so.

After shuffling through immigration, baggage claim, and customs, the large glass doors of the Mohammed V Airport slide back, unveiling a slab of foreign faces cloaked in silence. Through the swaths of silk and coiled turbans emerge mocha skin and coffee bean eyes. In a brief moment, one thing is clear: no matter the modest ensembles, no matter the absence of tennis shoes, or the presence of a Moroccan guide--there will be no anonymity. Chins tucked in, we follow Mustapha's lead through the maze. Mustapha is our sage through Morocco. Though he was educated in the United States and loves his American citizenship, Mustapha has the soul of a Moroccan. His childhood memories and former life in Morocco proved a bottomless well from which to draw. However, the barrier remained. We enjoyed our piggyback ride on the heels of a native son whose ambitions flourished in America and are restored by his country's culinary heritage. Mustapha overlooks the obvious poverty in his country to celebrate what Moroccans share most graciously and without complaint-their food.

Mustapha at the helm--Americans in tow, we dodge oncoming traffic, past rows of grubby horses sagging under carriages and dive into the abyss of the Marrakech market place. Place Djemaa el-Fna swarms with people. Solicitations and open fists are thrust forward with every camera flash. Dancing dwarfs and fire breathers part the converging crowds. The commotion of outdoor food stalls auctioning their goods fills the air with thick smoke, dry spice, and diesel. The smells and sounds of Marrakech follows me to bed. Dawn commences with the morning call to prayer--broadcast over a loud speaker. The monotone hymns sail past the doors of the mosque, over empty streets and city buildings to where I lay. Though haunting, the sound is moving. I try to imagine what the singer implores. How many knees touch the ground? How many children crouch, droopy eyed, contemplating sleep. For several nights, I rose and slept to this hypnotic song.

Islamic ideology resounds in every aspect of Moroccan life. It has been a part of Moroccan culture since the 600s when Arabs brought Islam to the Berber tribes of maghreb, "the west." Muslim rule emerged by way of Arab and Berber fundamentalists, extremely devout and conservative. The Moors, as they were known, ruled Morocco and much of Muslim Spain and Europe by the tenth century. Their beliefs inspired the geometri patterns employed in mosaic tile designs and latticework on building exteriors; godly images are strictly forbidden. During this time, Andalusian culture, art, and architecture blossomed. Calligraphy of the Arabic language, colorful pottery of Spanish descent, and rich textiles are all highly decorative examples of the Spanish-Muslim heritage. In fact, the two main influences in Morocco history are of Arab and Spanish descent. The French became part of Morocco's most recent history. Having occupied the country from the early 1900s, the French contributed much in the way of education; today, French is spoken as naturally as Arabic. As a result, Moroccans are multilingual, speaking Arabic, French, and Spanish, fluently, though French is the language of business. After centuries of political struggle and cultural homogenizing, Morocco achieved independence in 1956. Autonomy now established, a youthful King in place, this third world country discovers its identity--one separate from its kinship with the Middle East, Spain, and France.

"And he will take your daughters to be confectionaries, and to be cooks, and to be bakers." Genesis 40:2

It's no secret, women rule the kitchens of Morocco. Because of extremes in poverty and wealth, those who work in the kitchen greatly outnumber those who don't. As such, Moroccan cuisine is born of a subculture. Moroccan cuisine has emerged and been passed down through generations of women. The executive chefs of elite hotels may not be female, but rest assured, a vast majority of the meals prepared are by Moroccan women. "The law of abundance" rules culinary etiquette. Moroccans are notorious for preparing exorbitant banquets. Meals begin with a hand washing ceremony--an extravagant display considering the value of water. At first, small plates with pickled vegetables, olives, and bread arrive. Tender carrots marinated in cinnamon, roasted beets in vinaigrette, and fried eggplant are all good. Pigeon soup with chickpeas, silky and warm goes unusually well with sesame and honey covered fritters. Gradually the table fills. Multitudes of courses, as many as twenty-seven, arrive. Mound after mound of couscous, tagines, bisteeyas, lamb, chicken, and fish is served and cleared, with perhaps only a spoon sized portion removed. In a country of so much poverty, the excess at the table is astounding. All is washed down with mint tea--a highly sweetened beverage made freshly and with flourish. Most Moroccan dishes are derivatives of a thirteenth century manuscript, which documents the country's culinary history. As in most countries, families and regions personalize the recipes to suit their means. Perhaps the biggest difference between Moroccan and European cuisine is found in the cooking techniques. Moroccans make efficient use of heat and water, a precious commodity in the desert climate. Meat, fish, or chicken dishes are placed in tagine vessels with spices, aromatics, and a mere spoon of water. When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnigtht, the A frame lid of the tagine pot enables moisture to circulate in the form of steam and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Sauces are not prepared with stocks made from a separate ration of bones, as in the European kitchen, but rather the entire cut of meat or fish is stewed until cooked. The resulting cooking liquid is simmered, seasoned, and served as the accompanying sauce. The basics of Moroccan cooking are simple though its ingredients and cooking techniques are time consuming. The Moroccan pantry is filled with familiar ingredients, but they are prepared in unusual ways. Having many of the staples on hand, makes for more efficient cooking.