Dumplings - Back to Basics - includes profiles and recipes of chefs specializing in dumpling dishes

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2002

The ubiquitous dumpling seems to be indigenous to nearly every culture, but just where this little bundle of joy came from is still a wonder. Whoever deserves credit for making the first dumpling is lost somewhere in the pages of gastronomic history. However, for food-obsessed editors at Art Culinaire, a life without dumplings is simply not worth living.

Dumplings originated not long after the creation of dough for bread or pasta. The actual definition of the dumpling is very broad and loose, which is no surprise since it appears in different forms everywhere. It's easier to distinguish the different types by example and even better by taste. There are basically two types of dumplings. Dropped dumplings are usually made using a protein or farinaceous mixture that is fortified and lightened. They can be shaped individually or "dropped" into a liquid to poach. The second type is a filling covered by some type of dough which is also simmered in a hot liquid. Most dumplings can be fried, steamed, or baked, but poaching is the most popular cooking method.

The Dumpling Cookbook by dumpling queen Maria Polushkin includes a wide selection of dumplings found worldwide. Her interpretation is bold enough to consider meatballs and fritters as dumplings. Whether it's kreplach, ravioli, or wonton, dumplings everywhere in the world have one thing in common apart from being recognized as comfort food, they are inexpensive fillers that provide a wonderful vehicle during lean times to stretch costly products, especially meat. In short, dumplings are endless in variety and infinite in goodness.

... More than just Dim Sum:

In China alone, noodle and wheat dough came into existence centuries ago. Although different versions have evolved, common wheat dough is still used to make classic Chinese dumplings today. The first thing that comes to mind at the mention of Chinese dumplings is jiao-zhi. The traditional version contains a flavorful mixture of ground, fatty pork and minced vegetables encased in a simple flour dough. The most popular way to enjoy these treats today is boiled or steamed and dipped in a variety of sauces. But they can also be fried in a hot pan with some oil. After the bottoms of the dumplings start to darken, water is added and they are covered tightly and steamed. The result is guo-tie-literally, "pot stickers." This cooking process results in dumplings with steamed top skins, crispy fried bottoms, and savory fillings, creating a wonderful taste and texture.

Another specialty is shao Ion bao. A cube of firm, "" broth and seasoned meat comprises the stuffing that is completely wrapped and sealed in dough. When steamed, the heat dissolves the gelatin, and when eaten, the flavorful liquid explodes in the mouth. The peril of this packaged delight is that the hot broth can burn the mouth. Often called "juicy buns," they are increasingly included on Chinese menus.

... ( Wrap it up!

There are so many types of dumpling dough and wrappers and the fillings are endless, from shark's fin to sticky rice. Lesser known in the Western Hemisphere are the popular sticky rice dumplings of Asia and Southeast Asia. Sweet or savory short grained glutinous riche is enhanced with a flavored filling and often wrapped in a banana or bamboo leaf. The packages are tied with string and steamed.

Dumplings have also found their way into the borders of Japan and Korea. The Korean mandoo is based on the same principle of the Chinese dumpling, but has been adapted, using local ingredients for the filling Spicy, hot kimchi, combined with anything from noodles to mushrooms or a mixture of pork, are all possibilities. The Japanese also have their signature gyoza, which is a Japonified version of the dumpling similar to the Chinese "pot sticker."

China boats the ever popular spring roll, a thin wrapper encasing meat and deep-fried to a crisp. Lumpia appear in Southeast Asia; these popular triangles made of the same thin wrappers as Chinese spring rolls are filled with piquant potatoes and curry or meat. In India, people love their samosa, crispy bundles filled with screaming hot, spicy potato Sound familiar?

A variety of filled rolls are popular in other countries as well. The Thais specialize in banana or pandan leaf-wrapped meats and fish. Imparting a deep, almost nutty flavor to the filling, the pandan, a local aromatic plant, is usually knotted around chicken or fish paste and then deep-fried. In Vietnam, steamed and fried wrappers are common, as seen in bahn bot loc; steamed shrimp and pork dumplings. The wrapper in this case is made primarily from tapioca starch, which imparts a translucent sheen to the roll.

...( Extra duck sauce, please.

Hands down the most popular dumpling from the East is the wonton. These 'swallowed clouds' are mostly pork-based fillings encased in thin, silky, soft wrappers. (Unfortunately, the classic wonton has been completely bastardized by the monstrosity Chinese take-out version that has warped the American palate's perception of Chinese food.) Also popular is the beloved dim sum assortment, which refers to a light meal of small dishes-mostly dumplings-enjoyed with tea.