Saffron - history, production, counterfeiting, purchasing and use

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2002

We just can't say enough about saffron one of the most popular spices in history. Art Culinaire first featured saffron in Issue 47, back in the winter of 1997. This seasoning is so beloved that we've decided to revisit this my stical, beaverly delight that has enchanted the world since the dawn of time.

In our previous piece about saffron, we explored its mythological and historical origins. Appearing in ancient Babylon and China as early as 2600 B.C. saffron is a veteran in the realm of spices. Although typically regarded as a savory accent, it has nonetheless appeared in desserts and breads since medieval times. And despite Nineteenth Century French author Alexandre Dumas' negative comment about saffron he termed in "penetrating" it has been prized throughout the world for centuries.

Saffron comes from the crocus sativus. Not to be confused with the hybrid of crocus sold amongst the tulips and hyacinths at the garden center, this flower is harvested specifically for saffron. Most folks know that it takes a "whole lotta" crocus blossoms to yield a substantial amount of saffron. More specifically, according to different authorities, anywhere from 400,000 stigmas or upwards of 85,000 flowers are required to yield a pound of saffron.

Producing saffron is labor intensive, hence the high price. In a good crop, each plant typically produces several flowers. The stigma or female part of the flower is the actual source of saffron. The stigmas are painstakingly picked by hand. Then they are dried or cured and transformed into pure saffron.

The masculine part of the crocus is the stamen. (For those who missed basic science in grade school, the film, Pink Floyd's The Wall, illustrates this point graphically.) Stamens are half the size of the stigmas. When dried the stamens are yellowish in color. Their appearance in the spice is a giveaway that the saffron being purchased is not top grade and has added dead weight. The lighter the color, the more "filler" there is, True saffron powder has a rich vermillion color. Even worse, grass or other crocus "filaments" can be dyed and mixed in with the saffron powder or threads, padding the weight of this pricey spice.

This "blend" of stamens and stigmas is found in both the thread and powdered forms of saffron. Not only is there little culinary value in these "spare parts," but they can dilute the flavor and color of a recipe. Stamens are sometimes ground into an inferior yellow saffron powder. This is not true saffron powder, and the lack of flavor will be easily detected.

Another sneaky trick is selling "American saffron" to unsuspecting consumers. In reality, this product is the thistle of the safflower plant. Grown in the U.S. and Mexico, these threads will be yellow in color but have no real saffron flavor. The truth is that the spice trade is rife with piracy, so there will always be questionable ethics involved in the production and sale of this precious commodity. Therefore, do not judge by price alone. Saffron passes through many hands before it reaches the consumer. Purchase directly from a reputable supplier, thereby guaranteeing a good product. Remember, caveat emptor; let the buyer beware!

So how do consumers know what makes high quality saffron? Never fear--there is an organization based in Switzerland called the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) that sets the worldwide standards for determining the quality of food items. Each annual crop is rated by ISO minimum standards and, most accurately, by a photospectometry report. This analysis determines the qualities of saffron based on three criteria: strength of color, flavor, and aroma. Factors to consider in purchasing quality saffron are a uniform red color, dry and brittle threads, and characteristic aroma--saffron should never smell musty.

Often, the desired degree of color is the decisive factor in deciding how much saffron is used in a dish. In order to produce its classical red-orange color, saffron threads or filaments, much like tea leaves, need to steep in a water-soluble liquid in order to infuse. Water or alcohol will release the vibrant color, but oil or fats will not. However, powdered saffron does not require liquid immersion to explode into color.

Saffron has other uses besides adding flavor to foods. An alternative use of saffron is as a natural dye, but the color needs to be set with alum since saffron is water-soluble. Once regarded as rich and luxurious, the deep yellow color of cloth dyed with saffron was associated with royalty. Today, Buddhist monks wear bright orange-yellow robes dyed with saffron. It is sometimes even used as an air freshener or as a beauty aid. Heliogabalus, a Roman emperor, took saffron-scented baths, while Cleopatra reputedly used a facial wash made with saffron.

The flavor of this wonderful spice does not boil away nor does it fade, particularly in baked items. Instead, the flavor and color intensify for many hours after being added to a dish. However, a common problem occurs when using saffron in addition to many other spices. Saffron has a very subtle, earthy flavor that, when mixed with other strong components such as chili peppers, is easily masked.