Michael Stadtlander: Eigensinn Farm Singhampton Ontario, Canada

Art Culinaire, Summer, 2002

The resemblance of Michael and Nobuyo Stadtlander to John Lennon and Yoko Ono is uncanny. However, the ardent couple who own, operate, and cherish their retreat in the northern woods of Ontario offer not love-ins, but dine-ins. His lean, six-foot-six physique towers over her onyx mane, which flows along the better part of her petite, four-foot-eleven-inch frame. She hosts a warm smile for all occasions. On the farm, broadcast from a megaphone attached to the barn, jazz plays for the listening pleasure of the pigs, peacocks, chickens, freshwater trout, pheasants, and herb garden--all residents.

In the summer, guests armed with Riedel flutes full of bubbling champagne stroll through the forest. Crossing over a rolling brook, visitors enter a spectacular fairly-tale setting. Within this enchanted forest, they take their places at the tables encompassed by nature. Incredibly, in the middle of the forest, a portable kitchen is set up to execute a dinner in the spirit "Midsummer Night's Dream." In the winter, guests sit by the fireside in maple chairs hand-crafted by Stadtlander, himself. The walls are rustic; pieces of stone, sea shells, wine corks, and bottles are artistically encased in the exposed cement-soil mortar, also molded by Stadtlander.

An annual Bohemian-inspired pilgrimage in the "Liberator", the couple's red kitchen-bus, takes them to various locations across Canada. Filming for a Canadian food TV series, they prepare and serve dinner on the "magic" bus.

Born in northern Germany, Stadtlander always wanted to live in the countryside and moved to Canada thanks to its Nordic climate. During his tenure at the heart of Toronto's dining scene, he played mentor and motivator to many young chefs including Susur Lee. He was best known for his two restaurants, Stadtlander's and Nekah, where he created innovative Canadian cuisine.

The Eigensinn Farm allows Stadtlander to live and do exactly as he chooses. He does not hire employees, but takes on apprentices, simply because he can. They live, breathe, eat, sleep, and cook the farm. While tending to animals, assisting in garden, manning the smoke house, and grooming the grounds, apprentices become part of the Stadtlander family and gain a new respect for their craft, far beyond just learning to cook. There is no salary, just room and board, and the opportunity to learn any of the diverse skills, hobbies, and interests of their chef. "I'm not just into cooking," Stadtlander explains. "I would 'burn-out' if that's all I did." Other passions include furniture making, building, sculpting and of course, farming.

Named for a Hermann Hesse novel, Eigensinn is an expression of individuality and unity. Without a doubt, the property is simply a marvel, embodying its owner's mind, body, spirit, and best of all, culinary prowess. After eight years, with dinner service on Thursday to Sunday only, the restaurant still retains a legendary place in the heart of Canadians.

Lemon Foam with Wild Blueberry Compote (Serves 10)

directions

For the lemon foam: In a double boiler, whisk the lemon zest, juice, egg yolks, and half the sugar. Whisk until thick, pale, and doubled in volume. Add the softened gelatin to the egg mixture, and whisk until dissolved and well-combined. Remove from the heat, add the sour cream, and stir to combine. Transfer the bowl to an ice bath and set aside until chilled.

In an electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat the remaining sugar and egg whites on high speed to form stiff glossy peaks. Fold the egg whites and whipped cream into the sabayon. Mix until well-combined. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator until firm

For the blueberry compote: In a medium saucepan, bring half the blueberries, the Riesling, and 1/2 cup maple syrup to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to one cup. Remove from the heat, transfer to the a food processor and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the solids. Add the remaining blueberries to the puree and stir to combine. Set aside in the refrigerator until chilled. Sweeten to taste with maple syrup.

To serve: Spoon some blueberry compote in the center of a plate and set a large quenelle of lemon foam on top. Pipe some whipped cream in the center and garnish with mint.

Chenin Blanc, Moelleux

Chappellel

Napa, California 1998

ingredients


For the lemon foam:
Zest and juice of 10 lemons
10 egg yolks
10 ounces granulated sugar
4 sheets gelatin, soaked in cold water
4 tablespoons sour cream
7 egg whites
2 cups heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

For the blueberry compote:
2 1/4 pounds wild blueberries
2 cups Riesling
1/2 cup maple syrup
Maple syrup to taste

For the garnish:
Whipped cream
Mint sprigs

Wood Grilled Veal Cheek with a Warm Chanterelle Salad. (Serves 2)

directions

For the veal cheeks: In a large saucepan, cover the veal cheeks, onions, carrots, leek, celery root, thyme, peppercorns, juniper berries, and bay leaf with water. Simmer until tender, about two hours. Remove from the heat. Transfer the veal cheeks to a sheet pan and discard the cooking liquid. Prepare a hot grill with maple wood. Brush the veal cheeks liberally with oil, season, and grill on both sides until slightly marked. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Separate the meat from the bone and slice. Keep warm.