The darling decapod: "it wasn't a rock; it was a rock lobster" the B-52's

Art Culinaire, Summer, 2002

Sometimes considered an aphrodisiac, lobster is perceived as lavish as foie gras, caviar, or truffles. Always a great seller on the menu and loved by many, it is just simply special. Lobster once was a luxury not easily obtainable, but today it is more easily accessible and affordable than ever before. The most popularly identifiable lobster variety is the clawed lobster, also referred to as the Maine, American, or northern lobster. In North America, clawed lobsters are harvested along the coasts of Newfoundland, Canada, all the way down to North Carolina. Although originating in different countries, clawed lobsters from the North Atlantic coast are often marketed as "Maine lobster."

North America is the dominant world force in the production of lobster although the lobster industry in the U.S. is less commercial than in Canada. In New England, lobster fishing, or lobstering, is often a revered and fiercely protected family tradition that has been passed through generations. In the United States, along the North Atlantic coast, the season is open all year, with the exception of Monhegan Island, off the coast of Maine.

There are strict regulations with regard to lobster fishing. Canadian lobstermen must obey government-regulated seasons. In the U.S., the legal minimum size for a fished lobster is measured by both the length of the carapace and the weight of the lobster. The carapace is the portion of the shell originating from behind the eye socket and extending to the beginning of the tail section and must be at least 3 1/4-inches in length. Lobsters must weigh a minimum of approximately 1 to 1 1/4 pounds. Any size or weight below these minimums must be returned to the sea. The same rule applies to "berried" or females carrying eggs in many countries. Exact regulations are difficult to gauge due to the variance of the national, state, and federal laws.

There are companies specializing in holding facilities, commonly called pounds. The lobsters are referred to as "pounded lobsters." Pounding lobsters helps regulate the law of supply and demand. When the season is at the peak, lobsters are held in corrals until the supply becomes low. This practice accommodates the high demand for lobsters during the holidays when they are not in season.

The second reason for pounding lobsters is to break up long journeys when lobsters are being transported live around the world. Lobster pounds in places like Hawaii allow the lobsters to become revived enroute to places like Japan, significantly reducing the mortality rate.

The practice of farming lobster is still being explored. However, since a lobster takes about 5 to 7 years to reach minimum size for harvesting, the development of lobster farming has been slow. In addition, lobsters in crowded situations are known cannibals, another deterrent to farming.

Generally, lobsters love cold water. They will freeze at 29 degrees (the same as sea water.) Optimal temperatures are between 32 and 40 degrees. In warmer temperatures, their feeding leads to growth spurts, which cause them to molt. During the summer, lobsters shed their shells, molting to grow into new and larger ones. The amount of growth is difficult to determine clue to variable contributing factors. It is impossible to say how many times a lobster will shed its exterior in a lifetime, depending on when it's caught or dies. Also, there is no reliable way to tell the age of a lobster.

Hard or soft-shell lobsters are available, depending on the season. Not to be confused with soft-shell crabs, the term "soft-shell" or "new-shell" lobster simply indicates the shell can be easily cracked. To tell if a lobster is hard or soft-shelled, gently press the area behind the claws. If it buckles, the lobster is soft-shelled--soft-shell lobsters have a higher water content.

Hard-shelled lobsters contain less water and are best for direct heat cooking. Soft-shelled lobsters are best for moist heat cooking. The hard shell variety is more desirable because molting has just completed; therefore, the meat is denser. In general, a lobster will yield 20-25% meat. The larger lobsters will have a higher yield of meat, along with a higher price. Lobsters can grow enormous, upwards of 40 pounds, but most chefs agree that a five pound limit per lobster has little effect on flavor or texture if properly cooked.

Separating the boys from the girls, females, called "hens," are often preferred for their roe or coral. The roe is eaten plain or used to flavor a dish or sauce. All lobsters have small "swimmerets" on their belly where the tail meets the torso. The female swimmerets are slightly larger and more feathery with tiny hairs, while the tail itself is often larger and more pliable to accommodate the eggs. Arguments prevail over which has better-tasting meat. Speaking of gender, interestingly enough, even the rare hermaphrodite exists, yielding half a batch of eggs, literally.

Ideally, lobsters should be purchased live and eaten the same day. Storage and handling are vital and can affect the flavor as the meat deteriorates quickly. Healthy lobsters have long antennae and act lively when handled. They are not fed in captivity; short-term holding is the aim.