Larry Matthews JR - chef's recipes

Art Culinaire, Summer, 2002

Larry MATTHEWS JR. Back Bay Grill -- Portland, Maine.

The Back Bay Grill showcases the best of Maine from the local produce and seafood on the menu, to the mural by the late local artist, Ed Manning, to the nightly personal greeting by owner Joel Freund. Over time, though always faithful to the regular guests, the restaurant has become increasingly sophisticated with the addition of fine stemware and china, innovative menus, and most of all, a talented young chef named Larry Matthews.

After working with Gethin Thomas at the White Barn Inn in Kennebunk, Maine, he spent a year at the Inn at Little Washington under Chef Patrick O'Connell. Soon after, a sous chef's position opened at the Back Bay Grill. Confident of his abilities and hungry to promote his ideas about classical and contemporary cuisine, Matthews quickly traded his sous chef's hat for a taller toque. At a young age (and appearing even more baby-faced), Matthews breathed new life into the menu, quickly turning the heads of first locals, then New Englanders. He ultimately garnered national attention and he has been lauded by the likes of the Wine Spectator, The Maine Times, and Boston Magazine for his unusually sophisticated fare. Clearly, Chef Larry Matthews Jr. proves that the regional dining scene in Maine involves more than a plastic bib and drawn butter.

Knuckle Sandwich with Chips (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster oil: In a large saucepan, bring the oil and lobster shells to gentle simmer. Maintain the heat for four hours. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Discard the shells, transfer the oil to a small bowl, and cool to room temperature.

For the red onion: In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients and toss well to coat and set aside for one hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Discard the liquid and transfer the onions to a small bowl. Season and set aside.

For the lobster mayonnaise: In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, mustard, and vinegar until smooth. Add a small amount of lobster oil, whisking constantly until thick and lemon-colored. Add the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream whisking constantly until smooth and thick. Season and set aside keeping chilled

For the sandwich: In a medium bowl, toss the knuckle meat with enough lobster mayonnaise to coat well. Season and spread some lobster mixture on a slice of rye toast. Arrange some red onion and spinach on top and cover with a slice of rye toast. Make five more sandwiches. Cut in half and set aside.

For the chips: Pre-heat a fryer to 325 degrees. Rinse the potatoes under cold water and transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan and dry well. Place in the fryer and cook until golden brown. Drain the potatoes on a separate paper towel-lined sheet pan. Season and set aside.

To serve: Place a knuckle sandwich in the center of a plate and accompany with some potato chips.

Extra Special Bitter Ale

Shipyard, Old Thumper

Portland, Maine

ingredients


For the lobster oil:
2 1/2 cups canola oil
1/2 pound lobster shells, crushed

For the red onion:
1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
l cup red wine vinegar
Salt, pepper, and sugar to taste

For the lobster mayonnaise:
2 egg yolks
1/2 tablespoon whole grain Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 cups reserved lobster oil
Salt to taste

For the sandwich:
10 ounces lobster knuckle meat
Reserved lobster mayonnaise
12 slices rye bread, toasted
Reserved red onion
Flat leaf spinach

For the chips:
4 long Idaho potatoes, peeled and
thinly sliced
Salt to taste

Lobster Tortellini with Lobster Foam and Basil Oil (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster stock: In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the lobster bodies and onions; saute until the onions turn golden brown. Deglaze the pan with wine and simmer until almost dry. Add the carrots, celery, and tomatoes and saute until tender. cover the ingredients with water, add the garlic, black peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about two hours. Remove from the heat and strain, discarding the solids. If necessary, reduce the liquid to yield four cups. Divide the stock into two separate containers.

For the pasta dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the semolina and all-purpose flour. Add the eggs and mix until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until just firm. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, divide into four pieces, press gently to flatten.

For the lobster filling: In a medium saucepan, reduce the lobster stock down to 1/4 cup. And the gelatin to the warm stock and dissolve.

In a food processor, pulse the lobster meat until smooth. Pass the lobster puree through a fine, flat mesh sieve. In a large bowl, combine the lobster puree, shallot, butter, and mascarpone. Add the gelatin-stock, lemon juice, and zest to the lobster mix and stir to combine well. Season and refrigerate until set.