One layer at a time - lacquering food

Art Culinaire, Winter, 2002

L:

Lacquer -1. [varnish, hairspray] laque f. -2. [varnished object] laque m. vt [wood] lacquer; [hair] mettre de la laque sur.)

Although lacquering existed in Japan as far back as the Stone Ages, it wasn't until the middle of the sixth century that it developed into an ornamental art. In fact, lacquer was originally used as an adhesive to fix arrowheads onto the shafts of arrows.

With the introduction of Buddhism to Japan by Korean and Chinese missionaries, craftsmen, technical experts, and woodworkers came to assist the Japanese in making Buddhist sculptures and constructing temples. In addition, those from Central Asia brought craftsman trained in the art of lacquering. Over time, the art of lacquering became more refined, and the medium progressed to the decorative art form we still appreciate today.

The more sophisticated lacquering techniques included using sap from the urushi tree. Although indigenous to Central Asia, this tree soon became widely cultivated in Japan for its sap. Eventually, the Japanese government established an official agency whose purpose was to supervise the production of lacquer ware. Under supervision of the central government, urushi sap was collected and lacquer ware was systematically created for members of the judicial court as well as for aristocrats.

Reflecting the trends of elaborate and decorative art during this period, lacquer ware was adapted to include a highly popular form of decorative display known as "makie." This technique involves drawing on a lacquered base with additional lacquer; gold or silver powder is then sprinkled on the wet lacquer to produce a design. Eventually, techniques used in both lacquer ware and lacquer art became even more varied and developed into spiritual and inspirational art forms.

Although there is no hard evidence to support the theory, the art of lacquering food may also have emanated from Asian cultures. At the very least, observing the beauty and value of lacquer art may have familiarized cooks with the concept and inspired them to create the same effect in the culinary arts.

From Lacquer Ware to Lacquer Fare

Although Peking duck might come to mind as one of the very first examples of a commonly lacquered food, Chinese culinary historians maintain that this dish does not have a long history. To understand its short but popular past, it is important to first realize that the term "Peking duck" refers to both a breed of duck, as well as to a method of preparation for cooking. As a breed, this species of duck also became popular outside of China, most notably in North America and Japan in the late 1800's. However, even though other countries had access to Peking ducks, China was the only country that prepared "Beijing kaoya," or "Peking duck," a roasted bird with a glossy, varnish-like, crisp exterior, whose intensely concentrated flavors lie just below the surface.

There are many different accounts of just how Peking duck has been prepared over the years; however, the recipes share similar steps and ingredients. Prepped ducks are usually five or six pounds in weight. The ducks are then inflated by blowing air between the skin and the body. The skin is pricked and then doused with boiling water, and the ducks are hung up to dry in an airy spot from four to five hours -- or sometimes overnight during the winter months. At this point, some Peking duck recipes advise coating the duck skin with maltose to give it an amber color, or rubbing the skin with one part malt sugar to six parts water; then the duck is allowed to dry again for a short period. Now ready for roasting, the birds are hung on iron rods with wooden handles in vertical ovens built similarly to kilns, which are rectangular on the outside and round on the inside. This method of hanging the birds also allows excess fat to drip downwards onto an inclined piece of sheet metal, with the grease eventually being con ducted into an outside bucket. The combination of the special preparation and actual roasting of the duck treats those partaking of this dish to a cooked bird that boasts a shiny, golden appearance, crisp skin, and moist meat devoid of excess fat.

Although the original methods of preparing Peking duck are still followed today, a few modifications to the recipe are sometimes made to save both time and labor. For instance, chefs may use a bicycle pump to inflate the ducks instead of their own "wind," a practice which allows them to save their "breath" to talk about their "visions" of cooking. And instead of hanging the ducks to dry for hours at a time, they can be quickly dried in a warm oven.

Candy Coated Popcorn, Peanuts, and a Prize

When it comes to food, the act of lacquering isn't limited to savory creations. Lacquering also translates well to sweet-filled pastries and can be achieved with a variety of materials and techniques. Although it does not produce a hard exterior, apricot jam, when heated and reduced and then brushed on top of a cooked pastry shell, gives the shell a smooth, shiny, and somewhat transparent finish. This visual appeal of the finished dish is paramount to both cook and baker. Brushing breads and rolls with eggs, egg yolks, or milk before baking produces various golden brown and glossy hues on baked goods freshly emerged from the oven. Likewise, a dessert sprinkled with sugar and then "flashed" under a salamander's quick flames -- or hit with a torch for one brief moment-- will take on a nice, shiny glaze and add textural overtones as well.