One layer at a time - lacquering food

Art Culinaire, Winter, 2002

Matthew Reguin

71 Clinton Fresh Food

New York, New York

Just out of graduate school and three credits shy of a Master's Degree in Economics, Chef Matthew Reguin decided it was time to do some serious soul-searching. Embarking on a career that focused on Economics was not going to fulfill his grandiose dreams of saving the world: "When I reached the end of the Master's program, I got to thinking that I wanted to do something with my life that satisfied people's most basic needs -- food, shelter, and companionship. Economics really didn't fit into this scheme, but cooking for others did. Satisfying the need to feed others brings me the satisfaction of saving the world in some small way. Since I'd had such positive experiences in the kitchen while working my way through school, a career in food seemed to be my next logical pursuit, and I've never looked back."

Perseverance and the desire to learn pushed Reguin into becoming the best cook in each of the kitchens where he has worked. This determination not only assisted him in honing his skills, but also gave him the confidence to come to New York City to try his hand at working in well-known, upscale restaurants such as Le Cirque and Danube.

Working in established restaurants known for their high-end cuisine and renowned chefs was truly an eye-opening experience for Reguin: "When I got to Le Cirque, it was a real 'kick in the pants.' I started out as a junior, second, double, not-so-special commis garde manger--pretty much the lowest position in any large house. I knew a handful of French terms and a handful of French people, and that's where it ended. It was like starting all over again."

In December of 2001, Reguin became the chef at 71 Clinton Fresh Food after joining the staff as sous chef in August of 2000. As sous chef of 71 Clinton, he had the good fortune to work, with Chef Wylie Dufresne. Chef Dufresne's menu, which emphasized the use of fresh market ingredients, was one that Reguin truly admired. In fact, their "simpatico" relationship was based on their mutual belief that as chefs, they should use the best ingredients and support local growers: "Although Chef Dufresne is no longer at 71 Clinton, we still spend a lot of time together at the market. We both believe that support of local growers is critical. I actually buy more than fifty percent of the food for the restaurant from small, individual farms where I know the grower and his family. I can depend on these people to sell me the best possible product whether it's apples, Swiss chard, or squab."

Chef Reguin's menu reflects his credo that using market driven, seasonal products produces an array of clean tastes and flavors, all of which reside harmoniously--side-by-side--on his dishes. And although he may not be saving the world single-handedly, his attempt to satisfy others with his food is expressed in very simple but heartfelt terms: "My primary goal is to put food in front of people that they find compelling and delicious. When you take a bite, you'll want to take another; you'll tell your friends about it, and you'll want to come back again and again."