Stolking asparagus

Art Culinaire, Spring, 2003

At Danube, Chef Lohninger has succeeded in adhering to his Austrian culinary roots while introducing innovative and inspirational dishes befitting a savvy Manhattan clientele. Lohninger realizes that catering to the high expectations of the North Coast dining crowd has its challenges: "I think there are differences between New York and other parts of the country as far as what diners like to eat. In NewYork, you have so many good restaurants known for their signature dishes -- these are inherent to the NewYork restaurant scene. They pretty much attract the customers. But customers are also looking 'for something new; so the creative part of the 'food cannot be underestimated. I think that tasting menus satisfy the need for new sensations and experiences. It is here where I can base my food on a harder core Austrian theme. This part of the country is much more open to it. The cuisine lends itself to the North Coast because we experience four seasons -- it seems to change people's moods as well as their tastes. "

Chef Lohninger feels it is important to instill in his staff an appreciation for what it takes to succeed in a very difficult business: "Day to day, I love to work with my cooks. They really are the ones who make me look good. Sure, I try to lead by example and there are certain things I need to do in order to run the kitchen, but I like to pick their brains, too. Some days, though, I'll have ten people in the kitchen and only two brains operating at full capacity. But it's important for me to use 'everyone's brainpower so that we're successful day to day. I'm lucky in that I have a very good sous chef who has been with me for two and a half years. His 'way of thinking is 'to support and understand me -- so we work together on almost every dish -- we taste; then we let the customer taste. The best part of my day is when I can stand in the middle of my kitchen during service and see three or four people knowing exactly what to do; their timing is exact, and they know just how many steps it will take them to fi nish a plate. I enjoy watching and being a part of everything that is going on around me, especially when sauces get painted on finished dishes and my team is playing like a finely-tuned orchestra."

Pan Roasted Veal Tenderloin with Caramelized Fingerling Potatoes and
Asparagus

(Serves 4)
SCOTT RYAN

Ingredients

For the potatoes:
8 fingerling potatoes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 large shallots, peeled and diced
Salt and pepper to taste
For the asparagus:
12 large asparagus spears, trimmed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste
For the veal:
4 5-ounce veal tenderloin medallions
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper to taste
For the mushroom sauce:
1 clove garlic chopped
2 cups black trumpet mushrooms sliced
1 cup veal jus heated
1 4-ounce slice for gras terrine,
 diced
4 sprigs thyme
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
For the garnish:
1/2 cup reserved veal jus

Directions

For the potatoes: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook until slightly tender, about fifteen minutes. Peel the potatoes while still warm and thinly slice four of them. Slice the remaining potatoes in half and set aside, keeping warm in a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the shallots and sante until translucent. Add the sliced potatoes and saute until lightly caramelized. Season and set aside, keeping warm.