Cheese trappings: it's all in the timing

Art Culinaire, Spring, 2003

NOT LONG AGO. If YOU WANTED A GOOD ARTISANAL OR EARMSTEAD CHEESE, YOU MOST LIKELY WERE on the prowl for an import from Europe. However, these days, with Americans' ever-growing interest in handcrafted cheeses, it is easy to find a product of equal or superior quality closer to home. Better late than never, Americans have discovered the native cheeses available in fine dining establishments, specialty shops, organic food markets, and local farm markets across the continent. However, relatively unbeknownst to many, America has been producing regional cheeses of superior quality and taste for well over a century.

Unfortunately, industrially produced cheese and cheese foods have found their way into our homes via less than innovative supermarket chains and heavy-handed marketing tactics aimed at middleclass America. Luckily, however, many retailers today offer a wide variety of both foreign and domestic specialty cheeses that please our increasingly educated palates and evoke Old World flavors. Organic food markets and specialty stores alike take great care in selecting cheeses that rival or equal those found on cheese boards in better restaurants. If you're fortunate enough to frequent one of these shops and want to enhance your experience as well as your knowledge, you should follow some basic rules for buying and storing cheese. These guidelines also apply to cheeses that you'll find at your local farm market.

BUYING Just as we look for the freshest ingredients from trustworthy purveyors to help us create a masterful dish, it is imperative to find dependable sources for cheese. Because we are dealing with a living, breathing organism, buying and handling cheese can be a daunting challenge; therefore, a bit of extra effort is worthwhile. In an ideal world, it would be preferable to purchase cheese from reputable and knowledgeable cheese merchants or mongers who are proud of their product. You can be reasonably assured that the cheeses they sell have been well cared for. Also, reputable cheese mongers won't normally sell you more than you need. In addition, they will not sell you unripe cheese without making you aware of the amount of time needed for the cheese to mature naturally. If you don't have the advantage of building a relationship with a cheese monger, the next best option is to frequent a shop that readily offers you a sampling of different cheeses. Keep in mind, though, the cheese you'll be tasting may hav e just come from being refrigerated, and its true flavors and smells will be somewhat masked. The simple rule for selecting cheese is that a good cheese should look good and taste good. The rind of the cheese and its color are usually indicative of its inner beauty. Usually, an unpretentious, natural exterior indicates a memorable interior. Soft ripened cheeses should not be concave in shape and should be devoid of dry edges and a strong smell of ammonia (a slight ammonia smell is perfectly fine). It is important to note, however, that some high-end cheeses do have strong herbal, floral and fruity aromas; it is essential to depend on your nose to assist in your decision-making as taste sensations can be fairly limiting. When tasting cheese, take note of its moisture content, texture, acidity, and even sodium level. Do the cheese's characteristics meet your expectations? Will the flavor and texture of the cheese work well for its intended use?

If you are purchasing imported cheese, it's critical to know how the cheese was shipped and handled while on its route to you. Whenever possible, check the label to determine the authenticity of the cheese. The label should indicate its name, producer, and origin as well as the region where it was made, the type of milk used, and the fat content; in fact, you should scrutinize cheeses with the same care used when choosing the grape-derived beverages many like to consume with cheese. You can also gain information found on the packaging itself, as well as rind markings when applicable.

STORING Most cheese boards at restaurants offer patrons portions of cheese in 1 to 1 1/2-ounce servings. This portion size should give you a good indication of how much cheese to buy, assuming you are going to eat it soon after your purchase. In other words, don't buy more cheese than you can consume in a reasonable amount of time -- you'll want to enjoy the cheese while it is at its best, and storing cheese can be a tricky business. There are a number of different ways to wrap cheese. Sav-a-wrap (R), aluminum foil, waxed paper; and even dampened cheesecloth are all viable means used to wrap cheese. Plastic wrap often takes a bad "rap" when it comes to cheese storing, as it doesn't allow the cheese to breathe as easily as other wraps. However, used in conjunction with another medium, such as waxed paper, semi-permeable plastic wrap does aid in keeping cheeses in good condition. The trick is to wrap the cheese in the wax paper first so that it has a bit of room to breathe. Goat's milk cheeses or younger cheese s fare far better when stored in containers with tight fitting lids. This storage method allows the cheese to oxidize slowly and enables the cheese to ripen at an even pace. Firmer cheeses, as well as blues, can last for weeks when wrapped tightly in foil.