Mari-nation - marinades; includes recipes

Art Culinaire, Summer, 2003

because marinades can be made from almost any ingredients found in the pantry, you can effortlessly change their flavor components on a whim, adding and eliminating ingredients as desired. For example, using less oil or more spices in the same basic marinade will dramatically alter the outcome of a dish. An endless variety of marinades are at a chef's fingertips, giving him or her the ability to build multi-levels of flavor. Stemming from the Latin word marinus, or marine, the word refers to the seawater used to preserve food before the advent of refrigeration. Marinating originated from the process of preserving and brining, and Vikings and other sailors who spent long periods at sea used these methods to preserve their food supply and stave off starvation. Unlike today, the prime purpose of brining foods was not to enhance flavor; the salt, used either by itself or within a marinade, inhibited the growth of bacteria that might cause sickness and even death in those who ate spoiled meat.

Four Fathers

we usually think of marinades as herbed oil mixtures in which different protein-based foods and vegetables are placed for varying amounts of time. But marinades can be as diverse as the foods that they are used with. Bearing this in mind, there are four categories of marinades: raw, cooked, instant, and dry. raw marinades (also referred to as wet marinades) are the most popular for meats. Items are often coated with an oil, an acid (such as vinegar), and assorted herbs and spices. Larger cuts of meat may be placed in raw marinades for an extended period of time but are typically left in the marinades for several hours or overnight. Once the meat is removed, the marinade may be discarded but may also be used as a basting liquid during the meat's actual cooking process. Cooked marinades refer to those to which aromatics have been added. They are first cooked and then cooled. The item to be marinated is added to the liquid once the marinade has cooled. Because the aromatics have been cooked, the liquid is more f lavorful, thus enhancing the flavor of the marinated item. These marinades may also be used as the cooking liquid in stews and some sauces. instant marinades are similar to raw marinades. The only difference between the two is that the item being marinated remains in the liquid for a much shorter period of time. This technique lends itself well to ceviches, whose marinade components usually consist of lime juice, cilantro, and chilies, dry marinades, which may be in the form of pastes or rubs, are used when no acidic or tenderizing ingredients are necessary. Dry marinating usually involves the strongest concentration of flavors.

Tender to the Bone

the he main purpose of marinating is to allow food to absorb flavors of the marinade or, as in the case of tough meat, to tenderize it. In fact, marinating has existed as far back as pre-Columbian Mexico, when natives wrapped meat in papaya leaves in order to tenderize tougher cuts. Enzymes in the leaves broke down proteins in the meat, making it more palatable. Ingredients such as pineapple, vinegar, and wine have the same effect today. there is some debate as to whether or not marinades actually tenderize meat. In his book On Food and Cooking, author Harold McGee points out that marinades usually just cover the surface of the item being marinated and do not penetrate the center. Injection marinating may be effective in tenderizing meat but only if its surface has not been docked or scored. Any incision or cut in the meat causes it to lose natural juices as well as the marinade during the cooking process. to avoid a dry, flavorless finished product, adhere to the "tried and true" principles of successful mar inating: use the highest quality cuts of meat, fish, or poultry and marinate for the appropriate amount of time. However, there is great debate over the optimal amount of time to marinate an item. Marinating for excessive periods of time only leads to mushy, gray-colored meat exteriors and acid cooked fish.

If you build it...

marinades can be made from an endless variety of ingredients. Yet the key to a successful and flavorful marinade is not only in the ingredients, but also in the right balance of a marinade's components. Marinade mixtures are typically comprised of three main elements: a base, an acid, and seasonings. Bases are oils (infused and flavored) and serve to evenly coat and spread seasonings over items being marinated. Acids can range from vinegar, wine, and lemon juice to beer, soy sauce, fruit juices, and even coffee. When using a stronger acid, a shorter marinating time is suggested. Seasonings for marinades run the gamut from herbs, spices, garlic, and chilies to fish sauce, salts, olives, and onions.

IaurentGRAS

Fifth Floor

San Francisco, CA

"I had the good fortune to work in the kitchen at Restaurant Guy Savoy and study with Alain Ducasse in Paris early on in my career. I spent five years as Chef de Cuisine at Restaurant Alain Ducasse and Hotel de Paris, where we eventually garnered three Michelin stars. From there, I felt it was time to head out on my own, and in 1997, I went to New York and took the position of Executive Chef at the Waldorf Astoria's Peacock Alley. New York was a great experience. I was fairly used to working in a large city after working for a time in Paris, so there was no real culture shock with that particular move."